It’s been years since my last post.

Last year I installed a fresh new 4r36 from Japan in my Seiko Monster (yeah I still love it, wear it 24/7)
I was replacing an NH36 that I’d had in it for a few years.

My frustration is that after I calibrate it to <+/-10sec/ day and <.5ms beat error, when I put the caseback on, the accuracy starts to drift. Then when I cinch it down it’s off by 30sec or more. The beat error stays accurate.
Can anybody explain this and tell me what I can do?
Thanks

Anyone familiar with Seiko 5J32A movement?
Apologies if this is not the correct place to post this.

The movement has been stripped down, cleaned and I’m reassembling now.
Installing the train wheel bridge goes without issue but after a lot of trials I still have this issues.. when the crown is pulled out to the 2nd position (for adjusting the time), the hack is engaged (normally) but when it’s engaged I cannot turn the crown to set the time, if I gently push the hack lever away from the 4th…

Hack help

I put my watch in my tote bag to avoid damaging it during woodworking, but ironically my tote bag fell backwards with the chair and the unpadded bag and watch hit the tiled floor quite hard!

The watch previously ran -10s/day, but now is closer to -15s/day. I also noticed the hour chrono marker is very slightly knocked to the left so that it’ll only hit the hour marker +3 mins or so instead of exactly on the hour. Day and date markers, 24 hour subdial, and hour/minute time and chrono hands…

Dropped my watch – is this clicking sound normal or a sign of damage?

Hi all! I’m wondering if someone knows where the regulation adjustment is on these watches. The regulation seems to vary between different models even though they use the same basic 5626 movement. On the 7113 there is no external case adjustment. So I need to know what the internal adjustment is. Please point out the proper screw.

Thanks.

I quote it as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the world’s conundrums these days. This is just a quick note, but down the road, much more detail.

So, as the Bullwinkle narrator once said “On with the show!”:

My newest favorite supplier sent me this fabulous “Anger Ball”:

I tip my hat ’cause I have an eight-inch wrist and it’s sized for an eight-inch wrist, not one of those cheapy little things that were made in China and sized for a six inch wrist. Of…

Anybody “Buy” Anything Recently?

I’m looking into upgrading my tweezer set that was manufactured in sunny, exotic Pakistan. I know names like Horotec, Bergeon, Boley and Dumont immediately pop into folks’ minds. What’s your take on manufacturers like Idea-tec, TOWAT, Vetus or some other brand that doesn’t get talked about much but still performs admirably? I don’t think I’ll find myself earning a living on this hobby but I’d sure like to lose fewer screws (and on a budget that won’t get me the hairy eyeball from the missus).

I saw a product on Amazon that I thought may prove useful. It is a microscope ring light with two circular polarizing filters. One over the LEDs and one over the lens.

The theory is, you polarize the source light, and then filter any specular highlights and reflections that are interfering with your work with a polarizing filter. If you’ve ever dabbled in photography, you may have used a polarizing filter to remove reflections off glass or water.

There are times I am trying to view the…

Exposing Polarizing Ideas (a review of a polarized light source and filter for a microscope)