Bob's Watches Bob's Watches Elizabeth Doerr
Looking for the ultimate list of luxury watch brands, ranked by lasting impact, innovation, and iconic design? This guide breaks down the top 8 brands that have shaped the world of watchmaking, highlighting the legendary models and stories behind each name. Discover which brands stand out and why these luxury watches continue to inspire collectors and enthusiasts everywhere.
1. Rolex
Throughout the history of Rolex, the brand hasn’t actually changed much. Rather, it has improved and matured, refining what already works. This approach is a big part of why Rolex claims the top spot in our ranking. The collections are streamlined and pruned every year, and those that survive do so because they are wildly popular. The sporty Cosmograph Daytona remains a collection frontrunner, of course, and the versatile Datejust is reportedly Rolex’s bestselling watch.
However, according to Bob’s Watches’ own Paul Altieri, the Rolex Submariner is the brand’s most iconic watch: “…It’s arguably the most influential timepiece ever created,” he wrote. And if we’re looking for that iconic watch among industry icons, this is surely it.
Rolex launched the Submariner in 1953, and, as its name suggests, it was the first watch able to reach 100 meters’ depth successfully. But even more than that, this is likely the quintessential Rolex design; it is one many brands have imitated, but never quite achieved, which goes to show that the Submariner established a “template” for sports watches. That enduring impact is exactly why Rolex leads our list.
2. Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe holds the second spot in our ranking, thanks to its unmatched legacy and reputation for technical excellence. Despite being 49 years old, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has attained a “new” icon status, especially in recent years. Introduced in 1976, just before the Quartz Crisis, the concept of this luxury sports watch was not only new at the traditional 186-year-old brand, but it was a watch conceived by famed designer Gérald Genta – a big reason the storytelling and mythology surrounding it have carried through to the modern day. Genta, after all, was the designer behind many famous watches, including Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.
Patek Philippe magazine advertising from 1976 pointed out the fact that the time had arrived for stainless steel to be taken seriously in the luxury industry, proclaiming it, “Designed for diving, for formal or festive occasions, or for slaying dragons in the executive suite.” Today, the Nautilus continues to drive global demand, especially among a new generation of collectors.
3. OMEGA
Holding the third position on our list, OMEGA watches are known for a reputation built on precision, adventure, and history-making milestones. The Speedmaster Moonwatch, introduced in 1957, was originally intended for race car drivers, which explains the tachymeter scale on the dial. However, its trip to the moon in 1969 is what built its modern reputation and, importantly, its marketing.
Astronaut Buzz Aldrin was the first man to wear a watch – this watch, the quintessential reference containing Calibre 321 – on the moon during 1969’s Apollo 11 mission. The celebrated Speedmaster has accompanied numerous space missions since, and it remains an important backbone of OMEGA’s collection today. It’s this blend of technological achievement and cultural significance that secures OMEGA’s spot in our ranking.
4. Cartier
Coming in at number four, Cartier watches are recognized for their ability to create timeless style paired with ongoing innovation. In 2017, the Cartier Tank celebrated a whole century of existence. With its instantly recognizable rectangular case, it’s one of the few watches that has consistently bridged classic and modern times. Comparing a vintage Tank with a contemporary Tank model, there is noticeably little difference, thanks to the strength of the original design.
The Cartier Tank’s history began at the end of World War I, when the liberation army’s tanks with their caterpillar tracks inspired Louis Cartier. Peace restored, Monsieur Cartier expressed his joy in the form of a timekeeper that imitated the shape of “peace-making” tanks, combining functional shape with avant-garde style. The parallel flanks on either side of the rectangular case evoked tank treads, while the rest of the case represented the vehicle’s cockpit. This characteristic form allowed the lugs and strap to be seamlessly integrated into the case for the first time in the early history of wristwatches.
Almost every decade, the Tank has provided new impulses without abandoning its original appearance. On top of that, the Tank was the first unisex wristwatch, and it has been equally popular among men and women up to today. Its enduring influence and cross-generational appeal secure Cartier’s spot at number four.
5. Audemars Piguet
In the fifth spot is Audemars Piguet, a brand whose reputation is closely tied to the Royal Oak. This daring wristwatch marked the start of a collection that has become practically synonymous with Audemars Piguet. The AP Royal Oak, the first luxury sports watch crafted in stainless steel, marked the first time that the watch industry performed true alchemy. As the legend goes, making this bracelet and case in stainless steel in 1972 was far more costly than using white gold.
Prolific designer Gérald Genta made his name and mark with this watch, and as previously mentioned, it wouldn’t be the last famous watch he was closely associated with. The Royal Oak’s revolutionary design and industry influence explain why Audemars Piguet sits securely in the top five.
6. Panerai
Occupying the sixth position, Panerai stands out for its unmistakable design and a devoted following among watch enthusiasts. Named for the luminous substance that aids in making this a great tool watch, timing was everything for the Panerai Luminor. This oversized timepiece prompted buyers to leave their moderately sized wristwatches at home in favor of a bold, cushion-shaped case with a prominent crown guard, a look that had never been seen before.
Instantly recognizable, the Panerai Luminor became the “it watch” of the 2000s, thanks in part to auction records, historical discoveries, and high-profile celebrity endorsements, especially the so-called Panerai Luminor Slytech (1993) famously worn by Sylvester Stallone. This watch added a new dimension to wristwatches, and it remains Panerai’s flagship to this day. That singular identity and enduring appeal make Panerai a standout in our ranking.
7. Breitling
In seventh place, Breitling watches are celebrated for their aviation pedigree and technical innovation. The most famous Breitling model of all time, the Navitimer, was the first watch to feature a slide rule bezel, allowing pilots to calculate speed, fuel consumption, and other key data. Specifically designed for pilots and aviation, the Breitling Navitimer debuted in 1952 in a large case, with an ultra-legible dial despite its many functions, including a chronograph powered by a Valjoux 72 movement. Its knurled bezel was and is instantly recognizable.
Advertised as a “combination of flight computer and the finest chronograph available,” the Navitimer was designed in collaboration with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). The Navitimer remains a mainstay in Breitling’s collection, with the latest models marked “B01” for Breitling’s in-house movement. This blend of function and style places Breitling among the top luxury watch brands.
8. Tudor
Finally, in eighth position, Tudor watches earn their spot thanks to a strong heritage and renewed appeal among new collectors. Trademarked in 1926 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor long lived in the shadow of its big sister brand. Its original mission was to offer more affordable watches than “the crown,” which it still does for the most part.
In 2009, Tudor underwent a major overhaul and brand relaunch, which went largely unnoticed until 2012 when the Tudor Black Bay, a reinterpretation of the early Tudor Submariner, and the Pelagos, both divers’ watches, arrived. Today, Tudor seems to have adopted a Rolex-like philosophy of incremental tweaks and improvements on popular models, leading to much success.
The brand is generally aimed at younger watch buyers, with jazzier, more colorful designs, attractive price points, and a reputation for quality. Brand ambassadors like David Beckham and Lady Gaga have enhanced Tudor’s image and helped make the brand more visible and desirable than ever.
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