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Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Grand Seiko or any other entity. This watch was generously loaned to me by my friend @watchsymmetry. Please check out his Instagram to see more photographs of this watch and other exceptional pieces.
Video
Review
I’ve owned and reviewed plenty of Grand Seiko watches in the past, and objectively, they are very impressive when it comes to case and dial finishing. For a long time, they were the underdog brand delivering high-quality watchmaking at prices well below competing Swiss brands. They pushed the envelope with movement technology, producing horological marvels like the quartz movement and, later, the Spring Drive.
That said, I’ve never been able to keep a Grand Seiko in my collection for more than 5 to 6 months. To be fair, most watches don’t last longer than that with me. But with Grand Seiko, I got burned out by their rapid release cycle and tendency to launch watches that cannibalize existing lines. So, I’ve mostly stayed away from the brand for the last 2 to 3 years.
The first watch to pique my interest since that sabbatical is the SLGW003. I fell in love with it the moment it was released, but unlike in the past, I didn’t pull the trigger right away. Instead, I waited for my friend @watchsymmetry to do so, knowing I’d eventually get to experience his watch without the impulsive buy. I’m glad he bought it and was kind enough to share it with me, because after spending a couple of days with it, I believe this is one of the best watches Grand Seiko has made. To their credit, it’s been over a year since release, and they haven’t diluted this lineup like they often do.
Launched in April 2024, the watch debuts their latest manually wound hi-beat caliber, the 9SA4, housed in a brilliantly executed Brilliant Hard Titanium case with a stunning white birch-inspired dial. It was introduced at $10,700 USD, though the current MSRP appears to be $11,000 USD.
Let’s check it out!
Case
I measured the case at 38.75mm in diameter, 44.15mm lug to lug, and 10.15mm thick including the sapphire crystal and case back. Grand Seiko is known for producing some of the best-looking, best-finished cases in the industry, and that reputation is well earned. This one is made entirely of Brilliant Hard Titanium – Grand Seiko’s proprietary blend of Grade 5 titanium that’s more scratch-resistant and polish-friendly than pure titanium, though it could use a better name.
The Evolution 9 case design is more restrained than some of Grand Seiko’s bolder past efforts, but no less impressive. This particular case is especially sleek and refined, with a gently curved mid-case and brilliant mirror-polished bevels along the sides and bezel.
The 20mm lugs have brushed top surfaces with a finely executed texture, and in true Seiko fashion, they’re drilled through for easier strap changes; something uncommon in this category.
The bezel holds a box-style sapphire crystal with generous inner AR coating, making it easy to admire the magical dial beneath. At 3 o’clock is a 6mm push-pull crown with excellent grip and satisfying action – crucial given the manually wound movement.
On the back, a screw-down case back with sapphire exhibition window offers a nearly full view of the 9SA4. I say “nearly” because of the faint Grand Seiko logo printed on the inner surface of the crystal. The watch is rated for 30m of water resistance, or “splash resistant,” as Grand Seiko puts it.
Dial
When Grand Seiko released the White Birch dial SLGH005 in 2021, I bought one immediately based on how incredible the dial looked in photos and videos. But in person, it turned out to be much harsher than expected. While it looked pleasing from many angles, some views made it feel jarring and slightly unsettling. After countless White Birch iterations, Grand Seiko seems to have perfected the formula with the SLGW003: its texture, color, and layering come together beautifully.
They’ve reduced the depth of the pattern for a softer look, and the dial now leans more white than silver, making it easier on the eyes. For the dial hardware, Grand Seiko chose narrower applied indices for all hour markers, which works far better in my opinion.
Their attention to detail on the indices, hands, and dial is unmatched. I’ve photographed watches from $100 to $150,000, and no one does it quite like Grand Seiko. The precision in cutting and polishing the indices is a manufacturing feat, and their clean-room standards are exceptional.
The hands follow the Evolution 9 design, which divides opinion, but I find it attractive. They’re finished to the same high standards, and the dial is very easy to read, with clearly printed minute and second ticks in black.
Movement
As mentioned earlier, I was an early adopter of the Grand Seiko SLGH005, which featured the impressive 9SA5 automatic hi-beat movement with a Dual Impulse Escapement, twin barrels, 80 hours of power reserve, and an accuracy rating of +8 to -1 seconds per day. Unfortunately, it seems Grand Seiko may have released the movement a bit prematurely: almost everyone I know who bought those early watches experienced timekeeping issues. Numerous forum posts documented poor accuracy and watches being sent back to Japan for regulation. It took about 18 months for Grand Seiko to resolve the issue and start delivering movements that lived up to their claimed specs.
With the manually wound 9SA4, Grand Seiko appears to have learned from that experience, taking their time to release something that performs as promised. While it’s essentially a manual version of the 9SA5 on paper, a closer inspection reveals subtle but meaningful changes beyond just removing the automatic winding system. For example, the beautifully executed click spring provides excellent tactile feedback and, visually, resembles a bird in motion when the watch is wound. Despite being machine-finished, the quality of finishing is excellent.
The power reserve indicator is well-executed, with a thermally blued hand showing the remaining 80 hours. The free-sprung balance and bridge are on full display, showcasing Grand Seiko’s approach to the Dual Impulse Escapement. This movement easily helps justify the $11,000 price tag, offering technical and visual sophistication that surpasses, for instance, the H. Moser & Cie HMC200, found in watches priced at least 50% higher.
Overall, Grand Seiko seems to have nailed it with the 9SA4. The hand-wound design encourages user interaction, and the movement is presented in a package that aligns perfectly with the brand’s design ethos. It’s also housed in a case that complements its dimensions. I timed the watch during my hands-on, and it ran comfortably within the stated accuracy range.
On The Wrist
The sub-39mm case diameter, 44.15mm lug-to-lug width, and sleek 10.15mm overall thickness make this watch wear beautifully on my 6.75″ wrist. The size and proportions are perfect for a watch of this style, and unlike the SLGH005, the 20mm lug width looks much more cohesive compared to the 22mm width on those models. Everything about this case and design works well on my wrist, and I’m confident these proportions would suit a wide range of wrist sizes.
As of now, this lineup doesn’t have a bracelet option, but I think this watch would look and wear incredibly well on one. So I’m holding out hope that Grand Seiko releases a bracelet for it featuring their new tool-free micro-adjustment clasp.
Wrapping Up
There’s not much else to say about this watch, apart from the fact that I absolutely love it. And that means a lot coming from me, given how critical I’ve become of this brand over the past 2 to 3 years. I believe they’ve truly created something special with this piece – the design, proportions, dial, movement, and overall wrist presence are all perfect. This watch is very high on my want-to-buy list, and I’ll be keeping a close eye on it over the next year.
At $11,000, this is an expensive watch. We’ve moved beyond the territory where Grand Seiko was known as a strong value proposition, and into a market where some truly exceptional watches are available on the pre-owned market for similar prices. While that may not be a fair comparison, it’s still worth considering, especially if you plan to pay retail for this watch. Even so, I believe this Grand Seiko can compete with others in its price range and still deliver an experience that surpasses them in certain aspects.
