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So it came to pass that a watch nerd with contrarian tastes ended up at the Haute Horolgie temple of the AP boutique in Bond Street. I’m happy with mainstream and accessible stuff, so how did this happen, what was the experience like and what did I think of the watches? This isn’t intended to question anyone’s opinion of the brand or its watches, taste is a very personal thing.
It started with frustration with what was once my Rolex AD. I now have a different one, but the outgoing AD did hold an expression for a Rose Gold Daytona on Oysterflex for a while. My new AD, who also supplied my Monaco recently, has removed this request for me as with the recent large price hike I could no longer see the value in it, but one of my terminal phone calls to AD number one was that the watch was at AP money, maybe that sowed the seed.
I had the opportunity of a day in London while my wife was on a course so I looked at the AP catalogue and made an appointment. I was drawn to the 26238, the modern version of the ROO Beast. If I was seeing the Beast, I should see a RO. I figured a Code 11:59 would be an uninvited guest
Security is tight! Three doors, two security guys and the reception staff. I’m got the feeling security guy two judged my full TZ attire. It was a bit intimidating!
Once inside the inner sanctum, I dealt with a lovely lady who was down to earth but passionate about the brand she represented. We had a good getting to know the potential client chat and she was enthusiastic about some of the non-AP watches that I own. This must have been the first 30 mins before an AP came out. The coffee was excellent, and I had a good 90 mins of her time with no pressure, it was nice, I enjoyed it.
What about the watches?
A titanium 26238, silver dial 15510 and a blue dial 11:59 chronograph appeared. I also tried the 37mm 15550 and saw the green dial 11:59 chrono and a 3 hand 11:59
The 26238
I was most interested in the blue dial steel 26238, but the titanium model came out first. I didn’t bond with it mainly because the bracelet has a curve from the end of the case rather than draping down, this functionally increases the lug length to 65mm and makes it too big for my 17cm wrist. I like the watch a lot, the bracelet quick release is fantastic, the watch just doesn’t fit me. I was a bit heart broken 🙁
The 15510 (41mm RO) and 15550 (37mm RO)
I fear the pitchforks and lanterns brigade from TZ are likely to come for me!
A watch icon, a famous designer, disruptive and shocking at release, all of this is true. In the flesh, they certainly fit better than the ROO, although the 41mm is a bit large, the 37mm is a bit small. It’s a shame as the 16202 Jumbo would be about right.
I didn’t get excited though, for that outlay, you want a frisson of excitement or a degree of stirring! I felt the design was very 1970s, which of course it is, but I couldn’t help feeling it was dated to my eyes. Horological heresy? The dials were silver and grey, I’m sure a blue dial would have had more of a wow factor. They were both scratch magnets, I presume these are demonstration stock, but susceptibility to those scratches would drive me insane, the design doesn’t mask scratches.
The trip was worth it, if only to quieten the voice suggesting I get a Royal Oak
The 11:59
I had no interest before seeing one.
The size is good at 41mm, the case is interesting but not exactly transformative. I liked the flyback chronograph and the blue dial. The sapphire is double layered and gives a very interesting visual effect and a wide viewing angle, not quite Sinn UX but you get the idea.
Downsides? No bracelet is quite a biggie, the dial is intricate but stamped. This is what GS do with their amazing dials, but at this price point I have reservations. The 3 hander didn’t appeal, just too much open space on the dial.
In summary
A nice experience once you get past security. I like the brand, the likes of Rolex could learn from their communication and transparency. There are no purchases to get what you want, as long as it isn’t a jumbo. I can have a blue dial RO, if that’s what I want.
The RO is such an icon, but I’m sure it isn’t for me, it was strangely underwhelming. The blue dial looks great in pictures, but I don’t think it changes my ambivalence to the case and bezel. The ROO is boss, if only I had the physique for it. I have a 47mm Panerai so I am no stranger to a larger watch, but although 42mm doesn’t sound big, the bracelet curve makes it so. Code 11:59 has an interesting chronograph in an interesting case with an interesting crystal. I’m not sure about the whole package, but I preferred it to the RO, and that was a surprise.
See, I said I was contrarian!
Dave
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