Beans & Bezels Beans & Bezels

Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Rolex, The 1916 Company or any other entity.

Video

Review

This is not going to be a normal review, because the Sea-Dweller 16600 isn’t a normal “review me” kind of watch given its age and availability. Mine is an early-1990s example, and it feels more like a time capsule than a product. So instead of pretending I’m doing an in-depth analysis of something current, this is going to be a little messy… a collection of the specific reasons this reference got under my skin and stayed there until I finally bought one.

Things I like:

First and somewhat loudest: no cyclops! I’m already pretty lukewarm to date windows in general, but a date window plus a magnifier is where my enjoyment goes to die. I say that as someone who owns a few watches with cyclops windows, but my hypocrisy can be discussed on another day. The 16600 keeping the date clean and flat under the crystal just looks more purposeful, more honest, and I like the fact that this decision was grounded in utility at some point, when achieving high pressure ratings relied on having thick crystals that couldn’t practically include a cyclops.

Then there’s the bezel, and yes, I’m planting my flag on aluminum over ceramic. Ceramic is “better” in the modern, practical sense: it’s harder to scratch and it stays perfect; but Rolex ceramic has a shininess that reads a little too flashy for what I want out of a sports watch. The slightly more utilitarian feel of an aluminum insert just suits this genre better, and it makes the whole watch feel like a tool first, luxury object second.

Another small thing that matters more than it should: no rehaut branding. Modern Rolex rehauts feel like billboards, and I can’t unsee it once I notice it. The clean, unbranded inner ring on the 16600 is a quiet reminder of when Rolex was still leaning harder into that utilitarian identity, before the brand fully embraced its current status-symbol era.

And then the drilled lugs and 1,220 meters of water resistance on a watch that’s roughly 35 years old. Drilled lugs just make life easier… strap changes are less stressful, and you’re not scraping up the underside of the lugs for no reason. And the depth rating? It’s totally vain, I’ll admit it, but there’s something deeply satisfying about knowing this old chunk of steel was engineered to survive pressure levels I’ll never come close to.

Things I like that I didn’t think I would like:

The first “negative” you hear about with the 16600 is the thickness. At 14.50mm, it’s undeniably a chunky fella… the kind of watch that reminds you it exists every time you slide a cuff down. But the proportions do a lot of heavy lifting here: a 39mm bezel, 40mm case, and 46.75mm lug-to-lug keep it feeling well proportioned, surprisingly compact and reasonably well planted on wrist. What really helps is how this era of dive watch cases handled their height. The mid-case feels comparatively sleek, and a lot of the volume is pushed into the bezel assembly and case-back. I don’t normally love a big protruding case-back, but on the 16600 I’ve come to appreciate it, because on-wrist it creates the illusion of a slimmer watch, almost like the watch is hovering rather than sitting as a tall slab.

And honestly, the thickness complaint gets a little softer when you remember what Rolex was doing here. Packing 1,220m of water resistance into 14.50mm in the early 1990s is kind of absurd in the best way. It also makes it hard not to side-eye modern watches that show up at 14mm+ with a genuinely pathetic 30m water resistance: and yes, Grand Seiko, I’m looking directly at you and your SBGM221 GMT.

Then there are the hollow links, another thing that gets filed under “old Rolex drawbacks” by default. And sure, modern solid links feel more substantial, more premium, more “block of metal”. But the silver lining here is that the bracelet doesn’t turn the watch into a wrist weight… the whole package stays surprisingly modest considering the spec sheet: about 86g for the head and roughly 55g for the bracelet.

The helium release valve is another feature people love to dunk on in 2026, mostly because it feels like cosplay on modern watches. But on a 16600 it hits differently. It feels less like a marketing checkbox and more like evidence that this thing was designed for a specific, nerdy, overbuilt purpose: from the tail end of the era when Rolex was still very comfortable making something that wasn’t trying to appeal to everyone.

And while we’re on design choices that matter more than they should: lug hole placement. Modern Rolex cases often optimize lug geometry so aggressively for the bracelet that the watch looks awkward the second you put it on a strap: like it’s offended you even tried. Older Rolexes tend to take straps better, and the 16600 is no different. It looks natural on rubber, NATO, even leather in a weird “don’t tell anyone I did this” kind of way.

Things I don’t like:

Now, a couple things I think are worth flagging for anyone eyeing one of these, because they’re not dealbreakers… but they are realities. The clasp is dated, full stop. You’re getting the old-school diver’s extension, the drilled holes for micro-adjustment, and that thin folded-over lock that makes zero effort to hide its age. If you’re expecting modern Rolex clasp luxury, you’re going to feel like you time-traveled in the wrong direction.

The other one is the link layout / fit situation. On my 6.75″ wrist, I couldn’t quite dial in the perfect fit and have the clasp perfectly centered. Part of that is on me… my wrist is annoyingly asymmetric, so I need more links removed at 6 o’clock than 12 o’clock; but there weren’t enough removable links on the 6 o’clock side to get it exactly how I wanted. I know it’s possible to address at a Rolex service center, and I may do it eventually, but it’s worth noting if you also have a smaller or lopsided wrist.

Rolex CPO: A reasonable solution to “I’m scared to buy vintage”

One last note, because I think it matters: I bought mine through Rolex CPO, and yes… it costs more than your neighborhood dealer. But for me, the value is real. I like knowing the movement hasn’t been “touched up” with mystery parts or even just serviced badly, which is something I’ve seen more often than I’d like. I like that it’s been tested back to spec, and I like having a Rolex warranty backing up a watch that’s old enough to have opinions about music.

The CPO experience is also oddly satisfying too, in the small ways. The little pouch is nice, the CPO warranty card scratches the same itch as a full set, and it just feels… official. That said, not all CPO is priced the same. And while 1916 Company has a reputation for pricing their pre-owned watches much higher than market, I’ve noticed that their CPO prices often comes in better than others (looking at you, Bucherer), so it pays to shop the program rather than assume “CPO price” is one universal number.

And that’s kind of the story of the 16600 in general. On paper it has plenty of reasons to be “worse” than a modern diver: thicker, older bracelet tech, dated clasp; but it keeps redeeming itself in the ways that matter on the wrist. It’s a watch that feels unapologetically engineered, not curated, and that’s exactly why I wanted it.

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Wound For Life Wound For Life

Oh, how the weeks fly by. Can you guys believe it’s nearly November? Before we get there, we have to get through Halloween first, and what better way to tackle the tricking and treating than by rocking a sweet vintage watch? You can totally pull off that old school recreational diver costumer you’ve been planning all year with some of these pieces. Enough talking, let’s check out this week’s Market Watch(ing) picks.

Neil’s Picks

BME Yachting Regatta Chronograph

What do we all want? Vintage chronos that won’t break the bank. Well, that’s what we have here. This BME Yachting Chronograph utilizes a Valjoux 7733 movement that we all know and love, especially when paired with classic ’70s shapes and colors. The cushion case is sharp with minimal wear and frames the dial nicely. Speaking of the dial, it has a wonderful deep purple color accented with bright orange chronograph hands and blue and pink on the sub dial at 3. All of which make for a stunning combination. 1970s yachting chronographs are some of my favorite vintage pieces and Justin over at WatchSteez.com always seems to find killer examples of them. Act fast because his inventory doesn’t stick around too long.

$1,300

Abercrombie & Fitch Chronograph

Abercrombie and Fitch actually used to be a legit brand. Not the skinny douche-magnet company you see today. One of the many things they produced were timepieces. The overall condition looks outstanding, from the hands, dial, and to the case. The seller claims case is unpolished. Although difficult, if not impossible to guarantee, it looks top notch none the less. The classic two register dial paired with Arabic numerals give it that early 20th century look. The combination of the silver dial, blue number track, and champagne sub dials set this apart from comparable, yet more bland, white dialed watches. With the best offer, I would try to score this at below $1k if possible.

$1,250 or Make Offer

Isaac’s Picks

Rolex Turn-O-Graph Ref. 6202

The Ref. 6202 Turn-O-Graph is a curious reference that has been sparking my interest as of late. In the grand scheme of things, it could be said that this watch laid the framework for the Submariner, and all subsequent Rolex sports models, as this was the very first Rolex to feature the rotating bezel. Yes. This of course would make you think that the 6202 is a largely unattainable reference, but you’d be wrong, as it’s surprisingly accessible in comparison to other references of a similar vintage.

Here’s an example that was listed by our friends over at the Keystone, and if you look closely, you’ll notice the presence of the words “Officially Certified Chronometer” on the dial, which is both rare and highly desirable. With several 6202’s popping up in all the various auction catalogues for the upcoming season, I think now is a very good time to get into one of these early sporting watches.

$26,600

Omega PloProf 600 Ref. 166.077

While some will scoff at the design and make remarks about its impracticality, I’ve always been attracted to Omega’s PloProf dive watch. There’s just something about that slab of a stainless steel case that’s so raw and almost alien looking, that you know it had to have been designed with a dedicated purpose in mind. It’s a bona fide tool watch by all definitions of the term.

The example in question today is perfect. I’m talking like, perfect. Everything has aged just as you’d want it to: case lines couldn’t be sharper, and included along with the watch and original box and papers is the original shark mesh bracelet, the original Omega isofrane, and rubber diver’s extension. If you’re looking for a PloProf, I really don’t think they get nicer than this. I mean, look at it!

$12,500

Dean’s Picks

Enicar Sherpa Star Diver

Orange divers seem to be popping up quite a bit recently and while the hype over some off the off-brand (aka, not Rolex or Patek) vintage sport watches seems to have cooled off a bit, this one is too cool not to show y’all. It is a funky orange Enicar diver that I’ve never seen. The model is the “Star Diver” and it has a great look to it with an interesting day-date format. The seller states it’s in mint condition and includes the original box, and who am I to disagree? The honor will cost you around €4K.

€4,150

Dugena Sealab

€1,050

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Okay, folks; late start today. It’s all good though, as my baby’s diaper is clean (for the next few minutes), and we’ve got a great selection of watches for you to peruse. We’re pretty heavily focused on vintage divers this week on Market Watch(ing), with just a couple exceptions. Without further ado, let’s get on with the show.

Neil’s Picks

DOXA 300T Sharkhunter

I probably do a search for a DOXA 300T once a week. I truly love this watch thanks to it’s tough and classic looks and its vintage cushion case shape. It is a pure tool watch built for one specific purpose – diving – which it did quite well. The example’s dial looks sharp with even patina throughout. There is still printing on the majority of the bezel, which is unusual for these vintage 300T’s. These watches almost never come up for sale, and when they do they rarely look this good. Prices have climbed a little over the last few years but this is certainly a fair one for a watch of this caliber.

$2,650

Oris Divers 65

This isn’t the first time this watch has appeared on Market Watch(ing), and it certainly won’t be the last. It is by far one of the best looking watches we’ve seen over the last couple years, both in its price range as well as above it. Oris’ restraint in keeping the dimension and proportions modest shows that they have an eye for what is timeless, and not just for following current trends. Using the Oris Cal. 733, an ETA 2824 copy means this thing will run like a champ. We saw this blue dialed version as Basel this year and immediately loved it. It truly needs to be seen in person to really appreciate it. At under $1k, this is an incredible bargain for an incredible watch. I don’t expect this to last too long.

$975

Dean’s Picks

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5514 “COMEX”

You know, sometimes there are cool watches out there that 99% of us are not going to be able to buy but are worth talking about nonetheless. The COMEX that Jacek and Scott have listed right now falls under that category. What the gents from the mission have is a ref 5514 COMEX Sub. Let me give you a brief rundown. Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise in Marseille, or COMEX, as we know it, was started in 1961 by Henri-Germain Delauze and pioneered technical diving as we now know it. This includes early work with advanced gas mixes such as Heliox, which allows technical divers to decrease the risks associated with the toxicity of Nitrogen and Oxygen at extreme depths. Anyway, in the 1970s they partnered with Rolex under the direction of then Rolex CEO Andre Heiniger to basically test Rolex dive watches for the company. Divers were supplied with the watches at no cost. The first watches supplied to the company were 5513s and had no COMEX designation on the dial. The clue something special was going on was the HEV on the side of the case. The second series of watches were based off the 5513 but designated 5514. They had the escape valve and also included the COMEX logo on the dial. This series ran from approx. ’72 – ’78 and for me, these are the coolest COMEX subs out there. They really bridge the gap between the early Subs and the later iterations like the Sea Dweller and 1680. The kicker on the watch that HQ is selling is the letter included, which is signed by Henry Hudson. Mr. Hudson was the head of the UK service division and one of the few examples we have of Rolex officials “certifying” rare vintage pieces like MilSubs and Comexes. A “Hudson Letter” carries a good deal of weight in the high end vintage Rolex community. The watch costs $133.5k. Take a look for yourself at a very cool piece of diving history.

$133,500

Rolex Subamariner Ref. 1680 Tiffany Dial

Shane’s Picks

Sinn 103 Moonphase

Here’s one you don’t see everyday: a Sinn 103 Moonphase. In fact, I didn’t know it existed until I saw this listing a few weeks ago. I held off on including it because I wanted to do some more digging on this discontinued reference. I still don’t know too much about it other than that it’s discontinued, and I’ve seen other versions with see-through backs and screw-down pushers. At any rate, it’s a cool variant of a classic pilot chronograph. I think it’s a bit overpriced, but maybe some private messaging with the seller can finagle a deal off eBay.

$2,900

Enicar Seapearl 600

I love finding listings like this. It’s just about the only way to get a good deal on eBay anymore. What I mean by that is the seller clearly doesn’t know watches, and his pictures and description will scare away a good chunk of the scavengers. What he has up for offer is a vintage Enicar Seapearl 600. Now, some will say this watch is ugly, and I actually agree, but it’s ugly in a good way. The big, goofy markers have loads of lume, which appear to be nicely aged, and would likely look fantastic in person (i.e., not viewed via potato quality photos). I’ve seen these sell for the better part of $1K in good condition, so I don’t see why grabbing this one under $750 would be a bad buy. Just keep in mind it’ll likely need a service.

Bid Now

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Here we go, everyone; Market Watch(ing) is once again live and kicking! Sometimes we end up with a theme, each of us picking somewhat similar watches. However, this week, the theme is “no theme”. That’s right, we’re all over the map and it’s awesome. No more wasting time, let’s get to the watches.

Neil’s Picks

1961 Zenith Pilot Cal. 40

Vintage pilot watches come in many forms. While I traditionally think of IWC, Smiths, Brietling or others, it’s this Zenith that made me take notice right when I saw it. Immediately striking is the salmon dial, a color not often seen in pilots watches – let alone in this condition. It’s extremely sharp all around with no corrosion around the markers or hands. The case is not large but at 34mm it’s the right size for a vintage pilot watch. In addition, the 19mm lugs that extend decently beyond the case will help this wear quite well on the wrist. A minimal sub dial at 6 helps to round out this beautifully executed piece. The manual wind Cal. 40 has a long history and often comes up in the same conversation as the venerable Cal 89. It’s rare to see a 55 year old watch that looks this good, and at this price. Justin over at WatchSteez does it yet again, bringing us a very unique piece at a great value.

$1,050

TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11

Vintage Heuers are classic, however the modern TAG Heuer counterparts just don’t seem to have soul of the originals. One modern piece that still manages to draw me in, however, is the Monaco. Obviously this is because it’s such a faithful homage to the original. TAG stepped up their game recently with this release of the Monaco Calibre 11, which is a near identical recreation of the original. Nearly every aspect is true to the vintage Monaco from the blue color of the dial, the horizontal markers, crown on the left side of the case, and they even had the foresight to remove TAG from the dial. It still has the timeless looks and is a fraction of the cost of an original. Throw this on a vintage rally strap and you have a winner. It shows almost no wear but nothing some serious racing can’t fix! It’s what Steve McQueen would want.

$2,500

Isaac’s Picks

Helbros Skin Diver

Continuing last week’s vintage diver theme, my first pick this week is an “invincible” dive watch known as a Helbros Skin Diver, and it comes from eBay. This is an unbelievably cool piece, with stark arrow hands, and it’s in terrific shape, with sharp looking lugs, and what I assume is the original bracelet, given how old it looks to be. According to my research, these Skin Divers are apparently quite rare, so to find one that looks to have been preserved nicely over the years, let alone one on a vintage steel bracelet, is a unique opportunity.

$997.97 or Make Offer

Omega Brochure

Every week, I try to stick to just watches from my daily searches, but these pamphlets and original brochures have a nasty way of making it into the roundup. What we’ve got here is an owner’s manual that would’ve been included in the sale of an Omega chronograph, much like the 2998 and other stunning references we see gracing this original document’s pages. Again, things like this are admittedly useless to the average collector, but if you’re focused on Omega chronographs, or you’re currently on a Speedmaster kick, I’m sure this would make a lovely addition to any focused collection. Oh, and, the seller says it’s ultra rare. The rarest, in fact.

Bid Now

Dean’s Picks

Patek Philippe 5040G

It might sound insane to talk about value propositions when it comes to wristwatches that cost more than most people’s cars. But then again, here we are. The Keystone has a watch that caught my eye. IMHO, the Patek 3940 in white metal might be the perfect watch. Its size and wearability are virtually unparalleled, especially in a complicated watch such as a perpetual calendar. If I had one complaint vis-á-vis the 3940, it’s that you can’t have it with a black dial (as far as I know, and as far as your name isn’t Clapton or Singer). White metal 3940s run in the $40k range, generally speaking. This watch at The Keystone is a Patek Perpetual Calendar powered by the same 240-Q moment, in white gold…with a black dial. Now, the tonneau shaped case isn’t for everyone but I think that adds to the allure. On a raw piece of black cordovan this thing would just sing. Now, if you’re buying ANY piece of modern *ahem* “haute horology”, you really should be looking at watches with boxes and papers and all the ephemera like the little pusher thingy, and I assume that this watch is naked which may explain the sub $40k price a little bit, but I for one would like to get a little more information on condition and accessories as these things make a big difference in value.

$37,500

Heuer Camaro

Inquire for Price

Shane’s Picks

Tudor Day-Date Linen Dial

You ever lust after a Rolex Day-Date in steel, and then realize they don’t make one? Well, I’m sure someone has. Luckily, little brother Tudor came to the rescue. Here we have one of Tudor’s Day-Date references, the 94510, with a sweet blue linen dial. Often times, Tudor DDs are seen with boring silver dials, but the blue linen here really sets the watch off. Throw in a bracelet, engine-turned bezel, and original papers, and you’re looking at a winner.

$2,150

Harvard Clamshell Chronograph

Week in and week out, we remind everyone about our love for vintage chronographs, and here’s yet another. This time it’s a Harvard Clamshell. Rocking a Venus 175, a minty dial, and a minty waterproof case, this is one you don’t see too often. I do think it’s a bit overpriced, but hey, what do I know? Well, I’ll tell you what I know; I know you don’t have to be Harvard-smart to know this is a killer piece.

€4,800

Gallet Two-Register Chronograph

I’m feeling a bit saucy today, so I’m stretching my picks out to three this week. Here we have a clean Gallet chronograph for not too many doll-hairs — 2,000 doll-hairs to be exact. With nice Gallets getting more and more expensive (thanks, Vrakas!), this one seems to be a solid deal. I love the marine chronometer style dial, especially the “open 6”, as well as the sharp case. The seller mentions that he thinks the case is plated and not stainless steel, but I don’t necessarily agree. If it’s a ’50s or ’60s watch, there’s no way it would still be coated base metal. At any rate, this one is worth consideration.

$2,000

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It’s that time of the year, folks. Playoff baseball is within site, and the NFL is starting up. If your wives and girlfriends weren’t already fed up with your man-hobbies (i.e. watches, cigars, guns, etc.), fall sports should do the trick. We’re here for you, and by that I mean, we found some great watches around the web for your consumption. It’s Market Watch(ing) time!

Neil’s Picks

Rolex Explorer I 1016

There are thousands of 1016’s out there but you know it’s a good one when it truly catches your eye – and makes you double check your bank account. This is a no frills tool watch. No gilt dial, no chapter ring, not a Tiffany dial. Just a top notch example of a true classic. This example with frog “foot dial” is in outstanding condition from the dial, hand, case, and the lugs. Examples like this don’t come along too often. This has been on the market for over a week, which is actually quite surprising. The 1016 is one of my favorite vintage Rolex pieces and if I were to buy one for myself it would look like this one.

$9,500

Seiko 6105-8110

Speaking of classic tool watches, here’s another hall of famer. Seiko’s 6105 is one the most classic dive watches in modern history. It has probably been on as many wrists of dive professionals as the Submariner. Finding one of these in good condition is becoming increasingly rare and if you do, the prices aren’t as affordable as they used to be. The bezel and insert are aftermarket but the dial, hands, case, crown, crystal are original. The watch appears to be in working order and looks far better then most other 6105’s on the market right now. The price is right as well. I’ve seen comparable ones at well over $1k. Always do your homework when buying vintage Seikos but assuming everything is legit, this is a solid buy.

$925

Isaac’s Picks

Longines Vintage Diver ref 7150-1

There are vintage dive watches, and then there are vintage dive watches. This, my friends, would most definitely be the latter. What you’re looking at is a stunning example of Longines’ famed Ref. 7150-1 dive watch, which some might know better as the watch that would inspire the brand’s modern series of Legend Diver wristwatches. Many are fans of the Legend Diver since it stays true to the design of the original watch, and upon seeing this example, it’s easy to see why Longines played it safe. The 7150-1 is arguably a perfect design, and as they say, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

If you focus on the slightly tropical dial (pictures don’t show how brown it is), you’ll notice the clear presence of all dial markings, intact and beautifully aged luminous plots, and a set of hands that match to a tee. What really pushes this piece over the top is its Longines-signed, stainless steel bracelet, which I’m told is quite the scarce piece of kit. To find a vintage dive watch this desirable, in such great shape, and with a bracelet is truly a rare and unique opportunity, so I’d advise acting quickly if this one tickles your fancy.

$19,500

Omega Ploprof

After reading an article the other day that discussed the proposed “comeback” of the vintage diver, as rare chronographs continue to climb in price, I really do think it’s possible that we could see this happen. The truth of the matter is, there are so many different exciting and rare dive watches out there if you know where to look, and if you don’t, let me be of service to you.

While browsing through eBay on a hot, late summer night, I came across a vintage Omega Ploprof being offered for sale out of the Sunshine State, and although it has certainly been worn over the years, it has aged gracefully. You’ll notice that while the luminous plots and dial markings have developed a significant amount of patina, everything is still visible, and has aged evenly, which is exactly what I want to see. The bezel insert also looks to have held up nicely, with no visible cracks, so it’s looks like we’ve got a winner here.

$4,999 or Make Offer

Shane’s Picks

Sandoz Typhoon 1000m

I honestly don’t know much about these Sandoz Typhoons, aside from it being one of the early 1000m dive watches on the market, but the one thing I know for sure is that it’s cool as shit. They can be found in a few dial variants, but the one pictured here is my favorite so far. The rough, almost sandpaper-like, finish to the grey dial, mixed with the contrast of the black markers and perfectly aged lume works really well. Of course, the big 43mm asymmetrical case only adds to the mystique of this nearly forgotten ’60s/’70s dive watch. One cool feature I think I figured out is the screw on the caseback. As I understand it, a watchmaker can use the screw to pressurize the inside of the case and ensure the crystal is properly seated.

$2,000

Wittnauer Diver

I’m going with another vintage diver, this time a Wittnauer. There’s honestly nothing mind blowing about this watch, but what it boils down to is a clean vintage diver with nice patina, for about a grand. The days where sentences like that are possible are likely numbered, so it can’t hurt to hop on the train while it’s still at the station. You’ve seen this dial on Wittnauer super compressors, but this time it’s a commonly seen ’60s style case with an external bezel. Get it while you can, folks.

€1,000

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