Beans & Bezels Beans & Bezels

Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Rolex, The 1916 Company or any other entity.

Video

Review

This is not going to be a normal review, because the Sea-Dweller 16600 isn’t a normal “review me” kind of watch given its age and availability. Mine is an early-1990s example, and it feels more like a time capsule than a product. So instead of pretending I’m doing an in-depth analysis of something current, this is going to be a little messy… a collection of the specific reasons this reference got under my skin and stayed there until I finally bought one.

Things I like:

First and somewhat loudest: no cyclops! I’m already pretty lukewarm to date windows in general, but a date window plus a magnifier is where my enjoyment goes to die. I say that as someone who owns a few watches with cyclops windows, but my hypocrisy can be discussed on another day. The 16600 keeping the date clean and flat under the crystal just looks more purposeful, more honest, and I like the fact that this decision was grounded in utility at some point, when achieving high pressure ratings relied on having thick crystals that couldn’t practically include a cyclops.

Then there’s the bezel, and yes, I’m planting my flag on aluminum over ceramic. Ceramic is “better” in the modern, practical sense: it’s harder to scratch and it stays perfect; but Rolex ceramic has a shininess that reads a little too flashy for what I want out of a sports watch. The slightly more utilitarian feel of an aluminum insert just suits this genre better, and it makes the whole watch feel like a tool first, luxury object second.

Another small thing that matters more than it should: no rehaut branding. Modern Rolex rehauts feel like billboards, and I can’t unsee it once I notice it. The clean, unbranded inner ring on the 16600 is a quiet reminder of when Rolex was still leaning harder into that utilitarian identity, before the brand fully embraced its current status-symbol era.

And then the drilled lugs and 1,220 meters of water resistance on a watch that’s roughly 35 years old. Drilled lugs just make life easier… strap changes are less stressful, and you’re not scraping up the underside of the lugs for no reason. And the depth rating? It’s totally vain, I’ll admit it, but there’s something deeply satisfying about knowing this old chunk of steel was engineered to survive pressure levels I’ll never come close to.

Things I like that I didn’t think I would like:

The first “negative” you hear about with the 16600 is the thickness. At 14.50mm, it’s undeniably a chunky fella… the kind of watch that reminds you it exists every time you slide a cuff down. But the proportions do a lot of heavy lifting here: a 39mm bezel, 40mm case, and 46.75mm lug-to-lug keep it feeling well proportioned, surprisingly compact and reasonably well planted on wrist. What really helps is how this era of dive watch cases handled their height. The mid-case feels comparatively sleek, and a lot of the volume is pushed into the bezel assembly and case-back. I don’t normally love a big protruding case-back, but on the 16600 I’ve come to appreciate it, because on-wrist it creates the illusion of a slimmer watch, almost like the watch is hovering rather than sitting as a tall slab.

And honestly, the thickness complaint gets a little softer when you remember what Rolex was doing here. Packing 1,220m of water resistance into 14.50mm in the early 1990s is kind of absurd in the best way. It also makes it hard not to side-eye modern watches that show up at 14mm+ with a genuinely pathetic 30m water resistance: and yes, Grand Seiko, I’m looking directly at you and your SBGM221 GMT.

Then there are the hollow links, another thing that gets filed under “old Rolex drawbacks” by default. And sure, modern solid links feel more substantial, more premium, more “block of metal”. But the silver lining here is that the bracelet doesn’t turn the watch into a wrist weight… the whole package stays surprisingly modest considering the spec sheet: about 86g for the head and roughly 55g for the bracelet.

The helium release valve is another feature people love to dunk on in 2026, mostly because it feels like cosplay on modern watches. But on a 16600 it hits differently. It feels less like a marketing checkbox and more like evidence that this thing was designed for a specific, nerdy, overbuilt purpose: from the tail end of the era when Rolex was still very comfortable making something that wasn’t trying to appeal to everyone.

And while we’re on design choices that matter more than they should: lug hole placement. Modern Rolex cases often optimize lug geometry so aggressively for the bracelet that the watch looks awkward the second you put it on a strap: like it’s offended you even tried. Older Rolexes tend to take straps better, and the 16600 is no different. It looks natural on rubber, NATO, even leather in a weird “don’t tell anyone I did this” kind of way.

Things I don’t like:

Now, a couple things I think are worth flagging for anyone eyeing one of these, because they’re not dealbreakers… but they are realities. The clasp is dated, full stop. You’re getting the old-school diver’s extension, the drilled holes for micro-adjustment, and that thin folded-over lock that makes zero effort to hide its age. If you’re expecting modern Rolex clasp luxury, you’re going to feel like you time-traveled in the wrong direction.

The other one is the link layout / fit situation. On my 6.75″ wrist, I couldn’t quite dial in the perfect fit and have the clasp perfectly centered. Part of that is on me… my wrist is annoyingly asymmetric, so I need more links removed at 6 o’clock than 12 o’clock; but there weren’t enough removable links on the 6 o’clock side to get it exactly how I wanted. I know it’s possible to address at a Rolex service center, and I may do it eventually, but it’s worth noting if you also have a smaller or lopsided wrist.

Rolex CPO: A reasonable solution to “I’m scared to buy vintage”

One last note, because I think it matters: I bought mine through Rolex CPO, and yes… it costs more than your neighborhood dealer. But for me, the value is real. I like knowing the movement hasn’t been “touched up” with mystery parts or even just serviced badly, which is something I’ve seen more often than I’d like. I like that it’s been tested back to spec, and I like having a Rolex warranty backing up a watch that’s old enough to have opinions about music.

The CPO experience is also oddly satisfying too, in the small ways. The little pouch is nice, the CPO warranty card scratches the same itch as a full set, and it just feels… official. That said, not all CPO is priced the same. And while 1916 Company has a reputation for pricing their pre-owned watches much higher than market, I’ve noticed that their CPO prices often comes in better than others (looking at you, Bucherer), so it pays to shop the program rather than assume “CPO price” is one universal number.

And that’s kind of the story of the 16600 in general. On paper it has plenty of reasons to be “worse” than a modern diver: thicker, older bracelet tech, dated clasp; but it keeps redeeming itself in the ways that matter on the wrist. It’s a watch that feels unapologetically engineered, not curated, and that’s exactly why I wanted it.

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TIC TOC MAN TIC TOC MAN

Luxury watches are precise, intricate instruments that require regular maintenance to perform at their best. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches all benefit from routine servicing, but many owners aren’t sure when or why it’s necessary.

Signs Your Watch Needs Servicing

You should consider servicing your watch if you notice:

• Inaccurate timekeeping (running fast or slow)
• Moisture or condensation under the crystal
• Unusual noises from the movement
• Worn or damaged straps or bracelets
• It has been more than 5 years since your last service

For vintage watches, servicing is particularly important to preserve mechanical integrity, value, and originality.

What’s Included in a Full Watch Service?

A full service by qualified, expert watchmakers like TicTocMan includes:

1. Complete Disassembly – The watch is fully taken apart to access the movement and all components.
2. Ultrasonic Cleaning – Case, bracelet, and movement parts are cleaned to remove dust, oil, and residue.
3. Inspection & Replacement of Worn Parts – Any damaged or worn parts are replaced with genuine components.
4. Lubrication – Movement is lubricated to reduce friction and extend lifespan.
5. Reassembly & Calibration – Watch is carefully reassembled, calibrated, and tested for accuracy.
6. Water Resistance Testing – Ensures your watch remains protected against moisture.
7. Polishing & Finishing – Case and bracelet are polished to restore the original look (optional for vintage watches).

Servicing by Brand

Rolex

Rolex recommends servicing every 5–10 years depending on usage. Popular models such as Submariner Servicing, Datejust service, Daytona service, GMT-Master II Service, and Explorer require precision care to maintain water resistance and value.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe watches, including Nautilus, Aquanaut, and Calatrava, are extremely delicate. Regular servicing preserves both mechanical performance and collectible value, especially for vintage models.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models contain complex movements that benefit from professional servicing every 4–6 years, ensuring longevity and performance.

Vintage Watches

Vintage watches require extra attention: components may be rare, fragile, or handmade. Expert watchmakers at TicTocMan have the knowledge to service vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, keeping them functional and authentic. Many watchmakers do not provide vintage watch servicing due to complexity.

Why Servicing Is Important

Regular servicing is not just about keeping your watch ticking:

• Protects Value – Luxury watches are investments. A serviced watch retains or even increases in value.
• Prevents Damage – Small issues caught early prevent costly repairs later.
• Maintains Accuracy – Precision movements need lubrication and calibration to remain reliable.
• Preserves Longevity – Serviced watches can last decades or even generations.

TicTocMan: Expert Watch Servicing in the UK

At TicTocMan, all services are carried out by qualified, experienced watchmakers specialising in luxury Swiss watches. Whether it’s a Rolex Submariner, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, or a treasured vintage timepiece, every watch receives:

• Detailed inspection and diagnosis
• Full mechanical servicing
• Genuine replacement parts when needed
• Careful reassembly and final testing

With fast turnaround times, competitive pricing, and expert care, TicTocMan has become the trusted choice for watch collectors, resellers, and everyday owners across the UK.

FAQ – Watch Servicing

Q: How often should I service my luxury watch?
A: Typically every 4–10 years, depending on brand, model, and usage. Vintage watches may require more frequent attention.

Q: What does a full watch service include?
A: Cleaning, disassembly, lubrication, replacement of worn parts, calibration, water resistance testing, and optional polishing.

Q: Does servicing affect my watch’s value?
A: Yes – regular servicing by qualified experts preserves or even increases the value of your watch, particularly vintage and collectible models.

Q: Can TicTocMan service vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet?
A: Absolutely. Our experts specialise in luxury and vintage watches, using genuine parts and proven techniques.

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TIC TOC MAN TIC TOC MAN

Owning a Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet is an investment, and servicing is critical to protect performance and value. But do you really need to go through the brand-authorised service centre, or is an expert independent watchmaker like TicTocMan a better option?

Many collectors, resellers, and watch enthusiasts in the UK are discovering the benefits of choosing qualified, independent servicing without compromising quality.

Why Brand-Authorised Servicing Isn’t Always the Only Option

Brand-authorised centres like Rolex Service Centres or Patek Philippe Authorised Service Points offer official servicing with genuine parts. But there are trade-offs:

• Cost: Brand-authorised servicing can range from £600–£1,500+ depending on the model, with vintage watches often costing more.
• Turnaround Time: Services often take 6–12 weeks or longer.
• Restrictions: Watches with aftermarket parts or vintage modifications may be refused.
• Limited Flexibility: Collectors and resellers who need quick servicing may find brand centres inflexible.

Why Resellers and Collectors Choose TicTocMan

Independent experts like TicTocMan are increasingly trusted by resellers, collectors, and everyday owners for several reasons:

1. Qualified, Experienced Watchmakers
   TicTocMan’s team specialises in Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches. Every service is handled by fully qualified experts with years of experience.
2. Faster Turnaround
   Unlike brand-authorised centres, TicTocMan offers quicker servicing, ideal for resellers preparing watches for sale or collectors who want minimal downtime.
3. Competitive Pricing
   Services are more affordable than official brand centres, without compromising on quality or using non-genuine parts.
4. Flexible for Vintage Watches
   Vintage Rolex Submariners, Patek Philippe Calatravas, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks often require special care. TicTocMan can service rare or older watches that brand centres may reject.
5. Trusted by Resellers
   Many UK resellers rely on TicTocMan to maintain value, accuracy, and aesthetic condition of luxury watches before resale.

What’s Included in TicTocMan’s Full Luxury Watch Service

Whether it’s a Rolex Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, or vintage piece, TicTocMan’s full service includes:

• Complete disassembly and inspection of the movement
• Ultrasonic cleaning of case, bracelet, and movement components
• Replacement of worn or damaged parts with genuine components
• Lubrication and reassembly
• Calibration and precision testing
• Water resistance testing
• Optional polishing and finishing

This ensures your watch maintains accuracy, water resistance, and long-term reliability.

Brand-Authorised vs TicTocMan at a Glance

Final Thoughts

For Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches, choosing between brand-authorised servicing and an independent expert like TicTocMan depends on your priorities:

• Want official branding and warranty coverage? Go brand-authorised.
• Want faster, cost-effective, qualified expert servicing, trusted by resellers and collectors? TicTocMan is the smart choice.

By choosing TicTocMan, you get qualified watchmakers, genuine care, and expert service that protects both your watch’s performance and investment value.

FAQ – Choosing Between Brand Service & TicTocMan

Q: Is TicTocMan authorised by Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet?
A: While independent, TicTocMan’s qualified experts use genuine components and follow brand-level servicing standards.

Q: Can TicTocMan service vintage luxury watches?
A: Absolutely. TicTocMan specialises in vintage models, preserving originality and value.

Q: How long does a full service take?
A: Usually much faster than brand centres, with exact timing depending on the model and complexity.

Q: Does servicing with TicTocMan affect warranty or resale value?
A: Independent expert servicing can maintain or even enhance resale value, especially for vintage and collectable watches.

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Wound For Life Wound For Life

Oh, how the weeks fly by. Can you guys believe it’s nearly November? Before we get there, we have to get through Halloween first, and what better way to tackle the tricking and treating than by rocking a sweet vintage watch? You can totally pull off that old school recreational diver costumer you’ve been planning all year with some of these pieces. Enough talking, let’s check out this week’s Market Watch(ing) picks.

Neil’s Picks

BME Yachting Regatta Chronograph

What do we all want? Vintage chronos that won’t break the bank. Well, that’s what we have here. This BME Yachting Chronograph utilizes a Valjoux 7733 movement that we all know and love, especially when paired with classic ’70s shapes and colors. The cushion case is sharp with minimal wear and frames the dial nicely. Speaking of the dial, it has a wonderful deep purple color accented with bright orange chronograph hands and blue and pink on the sub dial at 3. All of which make for a stunning combination. 1970s yachting chronographs are some of my favorite vintage pieces and Justin over at WatchSteez.com always seems to find killer examples of them. Act fast because his inventory doesn’t stick around too long.

$1,300

Abercrombie & Fitch Chronograph

Abercrombie and Fitch actually used to be a legit brand. Not the skinny douche-magnet company you see today. One of the many things they produced were timepieces. The overall condition looks outstanding, from the hands, dial, and to the case. The seller claims case is unpolished. Although difficult, if not impossible to guarantee, it looks top notch none the less. The classic two register dial paired with Arabic numerals give it that early 20th century look. The combination of the silver dial, blue number track, and champagne sub dials set this apart from comparable, yet more bland, white dialed watches. With the best offer, I would try to score this at below $1k if possible.

$1,250 or Make Offer

Isaac’s Picks

Rolex Turn-O-Graph Ref. 6202

The Ref. 6202 Turn-O-Graph is a curious reference that has been sparking my interest as of late. In the grand scheme of things, it could be said that this watch laid the framework for the Submariner, and all subsequent Rolex sports models, as this was the very first Rolex to feature the rotating bezel. Yes. This of course would make you think that the 6202 is a largely unattainable reference, but you’d be wrong, as it’s surprisingly accessible in comparison to other references of a similar vintage.

Here’s an example that was listed by our friends over at the Keystone, and if you look closely, you’ll notice the presence of the words “Officially Certified Chronometer” on the dial, which is both rare and highly desirable. With several 6202’s popping up in all the various auction catalogues for the upcoming season, I think now is a very good time to get into one of these early sporting watches.

$26,600

Omega PloProf 600 Ref. 166.077

While some will scoff at the design and make remarks about its impracticality, I’ve always been attracted to Omega’s PloProf dive watch. There’s just something about that slab of a stainless steel case that’s so raw and almost alien looking, that you know it had to have been designed with a dedicated purpose in mind. It’s a bona fide tool watch by all definitions of the term.

The example in question today is perfect. I’m talking like, perfect. Everything has aged just as you’d want it to: case lines couldn’t be sharper, and included along with the watch and original box and papers is the original shark mesh bracelet, the original Omega isofrane, and rubber diver’s extension. If you’re looking for a PloProf, I really don’t think they get nicer than this. I mean, look at it!

$12,500

Dean’s Picks

Enicar Sherpa Star Diver

Orange divers seem to be popping up quite a bit recently and while the hype over some off the off-brand (aka, not Rolex or Patek) vintage sport watches seems to have cooled off a bit, this one is too cool not to show y’all. It is a funky orange Enicar diver that I’ve never seen. The model is the “Star Diver” and it has a great look to it with an interesting day-date format. The seller states it’s in mint condition and includes the original box, and who am I to disagree? The honor will cost you around €4K.

€4,150

Dugena Sealab

€1,050

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Wound For Life Wound For Life

Okay, folks; late start today. It’s all good though, as my baby’s diaper is clean (for the next few minutes), and we’ve got a great selection of watches for you to peruse. We’re pretty heavily focused on vintage divers this week on Market Watch(ing), with just a couple exceptions. Without further ado, let’s get on with the show.

Neil’s Picks

DOXA 300T Sharkhunter

I probably do a search for a DOXA 300T once a week. I truly love this watch thanks to it’s tough and classic looks and its vintage cushion case shape. It is a pure tool watch built for one specific purpose – diving – which it did quite well. The example’s dial looks sharp with even patina throughout. There is still printing on the majority of the bezel, which is unusual for these vintage 300T’s. These watches almost never come up for sale, and when they do they rarely look this good. Prices have climbed a little over the last few years but this is certainly a fair one for a watch of this caliber.

$2,650

Oris Divers 65

This isn’t the first time this watch has appeared on Market Watch(ing), and it certainly won’t be the last. It is by far one of the best looking watches we’ve seen over the last couple years, both in its price range as well as above it. Oris’ restraint in keeping the dimension and proportions modest shows that they have an eye for what is timeless, and not just for following current trends. Using the Oris Cal. 733, an ETA 2824 copy means this thing will run like a champ. We saw this blue dialed version as Basel this year and immediately loved it. It truly needs to be seen in person to really appreciate it. At under $1k, this is an incredible bargain for an incredible watch. I don’t expect this to last too long.

$975

Dean’s Picks

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5514 “COMEX”

You know, sometimes there are cool watches out there that 99% of us are not going to be able to buy but are worth talking about nonetheless. The COMEX that Jacek and Scott have listed right now falls under that category. What the gents from the mission have is a ref 5514 COMEX Sub. Let me give you a brief rundown. Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise in Marseille, or COMEX, as we know it, was started in 1961 by Henri-Germain Delauze and pioneered technical diving as we now know it. This includes early work with advanced gas mixes such as Heliox, which allows technical divers to decrease the risks associated with the toxicity of Nitrogen and Oxygen at extreme depths. Anyway, in the 1970s they partnered with Rolex under the direction of then Rolex CEO Andre Heiniger to basically test Rolex dive watches for the company. Divers were supplied with the watches at no cost. The first watches supplied to the company were 5513s and had no COMEX designation on the dial. The clue something special was going on was the HEV on the side of the case. The second series of watches were based off the 5513 but designated 5514. They had the escape valve and also included the COMEX logo on the dial. This series ran from approx. ’72 – ’78 and for me, these are the coolest COMEX subs out there. They really bridge the gap between the early Subs and the later iterations like the Sea Dweller and 1680. The kicker on the watch that HQ is selling is the letter included, which is signed by Henry Hudson. Mr. Hudson was the head of the UK service division and one of the few examples we have of Rolex officials “certifying” rare vintage pieces like MilSubs and Comexes. A “Hudson Letter” carries a good deal of weight in the high end vintage Rolex community. The watch costs $133.5k. Take a look for yourself at a very cool piece of diving history.

$133,500

Rolex Subamariner Ref. 1680 Tiffany Dial

Shane’s Picks

Sinn 103 Moonphase

Here’s one you don’t see everyday: a Sinn 103 Moonphase. In fact, I didn’t know it existed until I saw this listing a few weeks ago. I held off on including it because I wanted to do some more digging on this discontinued reference. I still don’t know too much about it other than that it’s discontinued, and I’ve seen other versions with see-through backs and screw-down pushers. At any rate, it’s a cool variant of a classic pilot chronograph. I think it’s a bit overpriced, but maybe some private messaging with the seller can finagle a deal off eBay.

$2,900

Enicar Seapearl 600

I love finding listings like this. It’s just about the only way to get a good deal on eBay anymore. What I mean by that is the seller clearly doesn’t know watches, and his pictures and description will scare away a good chunk of the scavengers. What he has up for offer is a vintage Enicar Seapearl 600. Now, some will say this watch is ugly, and I actually agree, but it’s ugly in a good way. The big, goofy markers have loads of lume, which appear to be nicely aged, and would likely look fantastic in person (i.e., not viewed via potato quality photos). I’ve seen these sell for the better part of $1K in good condition, so I don’t see why grabbing this one under $750 would be a bad buy. Just keep in mind it’ll likely need a service.

Bid Now

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Wound For Life Wound For Life

If there’s anything New Englanders love, it’s fall. Barbour jackets, flannels, pumpkin spice everything, and on and on. It’s pretty much the best time of year. And what better to bring on fall than a sweet selection of watches for sale to match your basic bitch attire? Well, we’ve got that sweet selection, so strap in, and enjoy another week of Market Watch(ing)!

Neil’s Picks

Omega Flightmaster, NOS

Here is one outstanding Flightmaster, probably my favorite vintage Omega. These don’t come up for sale too often, especially good examples.  This thing is one of the best I’ve seen, and really does look incredible. I almost never believe anyone that claims “new old stock” with a watch this old, but this time, I’m inclined to believe it. It’s priced as such too. Part of me says to keep it in this condition but my philosophy is that watches are meant for wearing, especially vintage ones as awesome as this.

$5,800

Sinn 142 D1

More cushion case goodness, this time from the Germans. Here is a watch that shows Sinn’s often overlooked aviation and space history. This comes with the robust Sinn bracelet, as well as the NATO pictured. It looks to be in worn-but-not-abused condition. Sinn’s bead-blasting is tough and ages quite well. The tritium markers have also aged nicely. And did I mention it has an inner rotating bezel? If you’ve been looking for a Sinn that’s historical, unique, and one that showcases the Lemania 5100 then this is the watch for you. The first second automatic chronograph in space can be yours at a great price.

$1,450

Isaac’s Picks

Seiko 6215-7000

Seiko’s first 300 meter rated dive watch was introduced in 1967. Known as the 6215-7000, this monocoque-cased piece was powered by the watchmaking powerhouse’s 35-jewel, self-winding Cal. 6215 movement, which featured a date function. The other night, I came across one of these Japanese dive watches on eBay, and couldn’t help but include it in my picks.

If patina is your thing, this one ought to do it, seeing as the bezel insert has faded to a nice light grey tone, and the luminous compound found in the hands and markers has aged to that oh so dreamy, custard color. As for the dial, don’t worry about the present lack of text on this example’s dial. While not ideal, it’s not uncommon to see faded text on 6215-7000’s, though I will say that this newfound sterility does give the watch a stealthy look that suits it well.

$8,000 or Make Offer

Universal Geneve Compax

When discussing vintage watches with modern watch collecting friends, I am always repeatedly informed of the small size of most collectible vintage pieces, in comparison to the hulking yearly novelties from our horological overlords. So here’s one for the naysayers, and those that happen to like ultra rare, oversized, V72-powered UG Compax’s.

At 40mm, this piece is perfectly suited for daily wear. Not too big, not too small, and on the wrist there’s a great deal of depth to this watch, thanks to the multiple scales and tracks that surround the matte black dial. The seller, Menta Watches, has also made a note regarding the rarity of this piece, seeing as this is only one of three examples to come to market in recent years.

Bid Now

Dean’s Picks

Longines Legend Diver

Sometimes the watch world feels a little sluggish. You know, the Datejusts and the Speedys and the like keep selling, as they will till the sun explodes or some such, but it just seems like nothing with real JUICE has been coming down the pike. Maybe it’s a function of the time of year, and the lull in auction action but here we are and I’m kinda bored with the selection of stuff that’s out there at the moment. So I’ll give you a known quantity/safe pick and one that’s a little interesting, from an academic standpoint.

$2,199

Rolex Explorer Dial Submariner

Price on Request (duh)

Shane’s Picks

Omega Seamaster “Anakin Skywalker” Ref. 145.023

I’m with Neil this week, funky cushion cases all around. My first choice is one we’ve written about before, the Omega Seamaster ref 145.023, nicknamed “Anakin Skywalker”. With a tungsten case that honestly looks like something out of Star Wars, it’s one of the wildest chronographs Omega made in the ’70s. With it’s legendary Caliber 861, this example looks to be all original, down to the included box. This listing will last another week, but it has no reserve. I say keep an eye on this one.

Bid Now (or in the last 15 seconds of the auction)

Heuer Autavia Arabic Bund

As we’ve discussed, there are practically endless variations of vintage Heuer Autavias, all to varying degrees of collectibility. This one here, rounding out my cushion case picks, is one that’s grown on me recently. It’s known as the Arabic Bund, because of the Arabic numbers (no kidding), and because of its connection with the German military. Notice that the number typeface is exactly like the revered Heuer Bundeswehr Flyback. These watches are not easy to come by, especially in good condition. The seller notes that the chrono hand was relumed, but it’s otherwise original. If this is your thing, I definitely recommend splurging for the GF bracelet, as it’s awesome, and can always be re-sold later if you end up not liking it (those bracelets sell faster than cheap beer).

€8,400 with bracelet

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Wound For Life Wound For Life

It’s that time of the year, folks. Playoff baseball is within site, and the NFL is starting up. If your wives and girlfriends weren’t already fed up with your man-hobbies (i.e. watches, cigars, guns, etc.), fall sports should do the trick. We’re here for you, and by that I mean, we found some great watches around the web for your consumption. It’s Market Watch(ing) time!

Neil’s Picks

Rolex Explorer I 1016

There are thousands of 1016’s out there but you know it’s a good one when it truly catches your eye – and makes you double check your bank account. This is a no frills tool watch. No gilt dial, no chapter ring, not a Tiffany dial. Just a top notch example of a true classic. This example with frog “foot dial” is in outstanding condition from the dial, hand, case, and the lugs. Examples like this don’t come along too often. This has been on the market for over a week, which is actually quite surprising. The 1016 is one of my favorite vintage Rolex pieces and if I were to buy one for myself it would look like this one.

$9,500

Seiko 6105-8110

Speaking of classic tool watches, here’s another hall of famer. Seiko’s 6105 is one the most classic dive watches in modern history. It has probably been on as many wrists of dive professionals as the Submariner. Finding one of these in good condition is becoming increasingly rare and if you do, the prices aren’t as affordable as they used to be. The bezel and insert are aftermarket but the dial, hands, case, crown, crystal are original. The watch appears to be in working order and looks far better then most other 6105’s on the market right now. The price is right as well. I’ve seen comparable ones at well over $1k. Always do your homework when buying vintage Seikos but assuming everything is legit, this is a solid buy.

$925

Isaac’s Picks

Longines Vintage Diver ref 7150-1

There are vintage dive watches, and then there are vintage dive watches. This, my friends, would most definitely be the latter. What you’re looking at is a stunning example of Longines’ famed Ref. 7150-1 dive watch, which some might know better as the watch that would inspire the brand’s modern series of Legend Diver wristwatches. Many are fans of the Legend Diver since it stays true to the design of the original watch, and upon seeing this example, it’s easy to see why Longines played it safe. The 7150-1 is arguably a perfect design, and as they say, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

If you focus on the slightly tropical dial (pictures don’t show how brown it is), you’ll notice the clear presence of all dial markings, intact and beautifully aged luminous plots, and a set of hands that match to a tee. What really pushes this piece over the top is its Longines-signed, stainless steel bracelet, which I’m told is quite the scarce piece of kit. To find a vintage dive watch this desirable, in such great shape, and with a bracelet is truly a rare and unique opportunity, so I’d advise acting quickly if this one tickles your fancy.

$19,500

Omega Ploprof

After reading an article the other day that discussed the proposed “comeback” of the vintage diver, as rare chronographs continue to climb in price, I really do think it’s possible that we could see this happen. The truth of the matter is, there are so many different exciting and rare dive watches out there if you know where to look, and if you don’t, let me be of service to you.

While browsing through eBay on a hot, late summer night, I came across a vintage Omega Ploprof being offered for sale out of the Sunshine State, and although it has certainly been worn over the years, it has aged gracefully. You’ll notice that while the luminous plots and dial markings have developed a significant amount of patina, everything is still visible, and has aged evenly, which is exactly what I want to see. The bezel insert also looks to have held up nicely, with no visible cracks, so it’s looks like we’ve got a winner here.

$4,999 or Make Offer

Shane’s Picks

Sandoz Typhoon 1000m

I honestly don’t know much about these Sandoz Typhoons, aside from it being one of the early 1000m dive watches on the market, but the one thing I know for sure is that it’s cool as shit. They can be found in a few dial variants, but the one pictured here is my favorite so far. The rough, almost sandpaper-like, finish to the grey dial, mixed with the contrast of the black markers and perfectly aged lume works really well. Of course, the big 43mm asymmetrical case only adds to the mystique of this nearly forgotten ’60s/’70s dive watch. One cool feature I think I figured out is the screw on the caseback. As I understand it, a watchmaker can use the screw to pressurize the inside of the case and ensure the crystal is properly seated.

$2,000

Wittnauer Diver

I’m going with another vintage diver, this time a Wittnauer. There’s honestly nothing mind blowing about this watch, but what it boils down to is a clean vintage diver with nice patina, for about a grand. The days where sentences like that are possible are likely numbered, so it can’t hurt to hop on the train while it’s still at the station. You’ve seen this dial on Wittnauer super compressors, but this time it’s a commonly seen ’60s style case with an external bezel. Get it while you can, folks.

€1,000

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Wound For Life Wound For Life

Okay, so the last week has been an absolute whirlwind for me (Shane). I became a father, and all things watches have become practically non-existent in my thinking. Hell, I didn’t even realize it was Market Watch(ing) day here at Wound For Life. However, as I get used to changing diapers, not sleeping, and constantly wanting to stare at my little creation, the show must somehow go on. That’s why we’ve got a pretty killer lineup locked and loaded for you this week. Sit back and enjoy. I’m going to go take a nap.

Neil’s Picks

Rolex 16760 GMT Master II “Fat Lady”

The “Fat Lady” is one of the unsung heroes in Rolex’s transitional era. While the 16750 and 16660 get plenty of love, the Fat Lady is often left unappreciated. To me they are one of the most unique transitional models along with the fact they are a milestone in Rolex’s engineering featuring their first GMT movement with the hour hand and 24-hour hand independent of each other. While the hands here show some corrosion, a matching vintage tritium handset can easily be sourced. What’s important is that it has the original aged dial, which is much harder to source. What also makes this appealing is the fantastic faded bezel insert. Faded Pepsi inserts are as popular as ever and increasing in price but I guarantee you’ll be the only person in your circle with a faded Coke bezel.

$4,250

Seiko SRPA21 PADI “Turtle”

Seiko’s Turtle reissue was an instant hit. It checked all the boxes for a modern watch that’s also supposed to be direct tribute to a vintage classic. While it comes in several different iterations for buyers to choose from, they’re all fairly conservative. This new PADI version is immediately more attention grabbing with the Pepsi bezel, red 5-minute marks, and red outline on the minute hand. The deep blue dial is instantly captivating, and fortunately the PADI logo isn’t distracting or overwhelming. I’m not even a diver and I would not hesitate to wear this. This is a full set, which includes the Seiko bracelet and a highly acclaimed Zuludiver rubber strap for those of you who may have trouble deciding which one to wear.

$389

Isaac’s Picks

Arten Chronograph

Whenever I start itching for a new watch, one option I always seriously consider is picking up a multi-scale chronograph. They’ve got this magic to them that few other dials can replicate. While I’ve yet to scratch the new watch itch with one of these chronographs, I still follow the market actively for fun, and to keep up to date on my pricing knowledge. This week, I came across this clean, “Arten” chronograph, that looks to be untouched. I’ve seen similar watches with the name Vintan on the dial, and from what I understand, both versions of this so-called “flight chronograph” are rather rare.

$1,999 or Make Offer

Universal Geneve “Big Eye” Uni-Compax

The exceedingly rare “Big-Eye” Uni-Compax from Universal Geneve is one watch that seems to be becoming more popular with the passing of each and every second, and it’s easy to see why. With strong, thick lugs, a clean, highly legible dial, and a reliable hand-wound caliber, the Big-Eye has all the key ingredients of a great vintage chronograph, at 37mm across, the watch is perfectly sized and proportioned. An example has become available for sale at Miami’s Menta Watches, and it looks to be quite clean, so if you’re in the market for one, this might just do the trick.

$28,000

Dean’s Picks

Universal Geneve Pilot Chronograph

Price on Request

Shane’s Picks

Yema Yachtingraf Chrono

As we’ve mentioned in the past, a number of off-brand chronographs have gotten hot in the last year or so, and the Yema Yachtingraf is no exception. Wanna know why? Because it’s cool as shit. Take one look at the oversized minute register and the demand for these watches becomes obvious. The overall condition of this watch seems above average, and the price of €3,000 doesn’t seem ridiculous at this point. What’s more, the seller goes by Karatekid in his sign off. I mean, if you can’t trust Daniel-san, who can you trust? Still, I’d ask for more photos, including movement shots.

€3,000

Selectron Computer (Just a ridiculous name)

Here we go with another reverse panda chronograph, this time from Selectron. Apparently an Ollech & Wajs watch, the Selectron Computer features a slide rule for making those necessary calculations when you’re in a pinch. The overall condition seems to be solid, and it’s currently sitting at no bids. Maybe you can work a deal off eBay for more like $850 to $1,000. There’s what appears to be a nicer example on Chronotrader at the moment, but that one certainly has the wrong bezel. Wouldn’t want to lose the slide rule capabilities!

Bid Now

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