Patek Philippe Archives - RK Watch Service https://rkwatchservice.com/tag/patek-philippe/ Watch Repair & Restoration Service Tue, 24 Mar 2026 11:47:19 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://rkwatchservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/cropped-RK-Watch-Service-Logo-Chicago-Watch-Repair-Web-32x32.png Patek Philippe Archives - RK Watch Service https://rkwatchservice.com/tag/patek-philippe/ 32 32 MING 56.00 Starfield https://rkwatchservice.com/ming-56-00-starfield/ Tue, 24 Mar 2026 11:47:19 +0000 https://www.beansandbezels.com/?p=13847 Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
B&B

A very original brand takes on a highly unoriginal genre.

The post MING 56.00 Starfield appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
B&B

Beans & Bezels Beans & Bezels


Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by MING or any other entity.


Video


A Crowded Space Filled With Unoriginal Ideas

Over the last seven-ish years, integrated-bracelet watches have exploded in popularity, largely driven by the hype around two pieces: the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. As a community, we gaslit ourselves into believing that these were the epitome of watch design. Demand went through the roof, secondary prices became astronomical, and suddenly every brand and their uncle either rushed to launch an integrated-bracelet watch or revived one that had been rotting in the back catalog for decades.

Having handled both the Nautilus and the Royal Oak extensively, I’ll say I understand a lot of the appeal. At least in their best references, they feel genuinely well-considered, with bracelets that are legitimately excellent and a cohesive design story that ties the whole watch together.

But where we are today is a crowded, messy category with options across the entire price spectrum: from Tissot’s PRX line, to Christopher Ward’s Twelve, to the IWC Ingenieur (which does have historic precedence, but also joined the party much later than it should have), and then the more rarefied stuff like the Credor’s Locomotive, Czapek Antarctique, Moser Streamliner, Romain Gauthier C, Armin Strom One Week, and so on. Some of these watches embody the philosophy of building a fully integrated, memorable product with its own design language, but most are forgettable improvisations on a heavily recycled theme.

And in the rush to get a product to market, plenty of brands put out half-baked watches meant more to ride the hype wave than deliver something great. The bracelet details often gave it away: the majority of the watches I mentioned lacked micro-adjustments (Tissot PRX, Christopher Wardinitially), many lacked half links, a few tried to catch up by including extra accessories after the fact (Moser Streamliner, IWC), and some took a few years to even get the fit and feel of their bracelets right (Czapek).

But we’re on the other side of the hype wave now, and hopefully we can all see things more clearly. Hopefully we’ve learned to ask more from our hype watches and accept quality over status. We have, right? ….right?

Well, all of this is to say the integrated-bracelet world is largely fueled by the worst aspects of the hobby, with half-baked ideas hitting the market where the primary objective is generating shareholder value, then resale value and then maybe being a good watch. Which is why I’m glad MING didn’t rush to meet the hype cycle. As we’ll soon see, they took their time to do this properly and deliver a product that wouldn’t leave the buyer wanting more, at least where the fundamentals are concerned. The MING 56.00 Starfield was a small Special Projects Cave release, made in 20 pieces and priced at 19,500 CHF, or a staggering $25,000 at the time of writing, excluding tariffs.

Ming Thein & Rethinking Watch Design

So how does a brand whose entire claim to fame is being recognizable, unique, and creatively unhinged take on a genre that’s inherently constrained and, in many ways, creatively inhibiting? Over the last eight years, MING has shipped almost 80 references, and the remarkable part isn’t just the volume, it’s how often they managed to make each release feel like it had a point of view. Unique, forwardthinking, sometimes borderline insane, and only occasionally repetitive. And somehow, they’ve pulled that off while keeping the fundamental DNA consistent enough that you can usually spot a MING from across the room.

That consistency is impressive because MING has never been a one-trick brand, even though that’s what the ignorant tend to accuse them of. If you thought MING was “the lume brand”, the 27.01 and Project 21 were pretty effective reminders that it’s not that simple. If you thought a MING needed hands of a certain style to look correct, the LW.01 exists as a counterpoint. The details change, sometimes dramatically, but the watches still read unmistakably MING.

ming 37.02 ghost titanium watch review

A lot of that comes down to a handful of design pillars that show up again and again: those flared lugs and compact lug-to-lug distances, the obsession with transparency and reflectivity, the use of exotic optical materials to create depth, and the recurring idea of a circular marker ring that functions as both an abstract, futuristic design element and a genuinely legible, timekeeping-critical structure.

And that’s exactly where the integrated-bracelet genre becomes a problem. Some of MING’s strongest signatures, especially the lug architecture and the way their cases “frame” the dial, don’t translate cleanly to a lug-less, bracelet-integrated form. The genre forces different proportions, different transitions, and a different set of priorities. Which means if MING was going to do this at all, they’d have to do something they don’t often have to do: compromise on familiar shapes without compromising on identity.

What Is An Integrated MING?

In a way, this isn’t the first “integrated” bracelet MING watch since they’ve flirted with fitted options before. But for most of the brand’s life, the dominant idea has been the Universal Bracelet: one bracelet designed to work across a huge swath of the lineup, rather than being engineered case-by-case. And more recently, MING took the concept of “we can do bracelets too” and dialed it to eleven with the Polymesh, a completely different kind of wearable object, realized via additive manufacturing in laser sintered Grade 5 titanium.

Having owned and reviewed at least three dozen MING watches over the last six years, I’ll say the Universal Bracelet has been a genuinely good solution on some models, and less so on others. But as MING’s prices climbed and certain case designs started to repeat, I won’t pretend I didn’t occasionally wish for something more purpose-built. The Universal Bracelets, now priced roughly between 650 CHF and 950 CHF, also came with some limitations, like no on-the-fly adjustability, and not much variety in finishing styles.

So the Starfield feels like MING embracing the idea of a fully integrated watch design again: if the bracelet is the watch, then it can’t be a universal accessory: it has to be part of the design spec from the first sketch. And that’s where the Starfield gets interesting, because MING didn’t translate their usual lug architecture into this format. The brand’s signature flared lugs are basically incompatible with the integrated-bracelet silhouette. Instead, the Starfield is built as a single flowing object: a 40mm, 9.7mm-thick case in mirror polished 316L steel, with a 6.75mm push-pull crown, boxed sapphire on top and 100 meters of water resistance, and weighs in at 120g sized for my 6.75″ wrist.

That all-polished decision is an interesting one though – it’s not the practical, brushed-tool-watch approach, it’s the “light is a design material”, and we’re going to show it off. And rather than relying on lugs for identity, MING threads in one of their more recent signatures: a subtle HyCeram luminous insert embedded into the case flanks, which is a structural design element that visually tries to wrangle the curved lug silhouette you’re expecting into this singular integrated unit.

Then there’s the bracelet, and this is where MING clearly decided they weren’t going to ship a “version one” product and patch it later. The Starfield’s integrated bracelet comes with a patent-pending tool-less sizing system: each removable link has a slider on the underside that lets you detach it without tools. And instead of asking you to play the usual integrated-bracelet game of half links, MING built a toolless micro-adjust into their push-button clasp, offering 5mm total adjustment in 1.25mm increments, with 2.5mm available on either side. And if you’ve been following my reviews for a while, you’ll know how important this is to me. I will say that the extension breaks up the design quite a bit with a narrow protrusion that does wobble a bit, but I will gladly accept this for the functionality provided.

This is the point where the Starfield feels like MING treating the genre as a design problem worth solving properly. Because if integrated-bracelet watches live and die on comfort, fit, and how “complete” they feel as a single object, no compromises on functionality can be tolerated. And a key feature to the ergonomics are the links. They have a multi-axis construction, less like a flat chain and more like a series of curved shells designed to drape. According to Ming Thein, the trick to making a comfortable integrated design work is progressive curvature across multiple axes, curved links, and a higher pivot point. That geometry lets the bracelet conform smoothly to a wide range of wrist sizes without the usual integrated-bracelet problems: gaps at the case, awkward “hinge points”, or pinch points as it wraps around the wrist. The watch on bracelet has a maximum span of around 53.5mm, so you’ll need wrists at least 53.5mm wide to accommodate it comfortably. The bracelet tapers from about 24.75mm at the head to just under 20mm at the clasp.

Don’t forget the dial!

As with most MING watches, the crystal is part of the display system. The Starfield uses a beautiful boxed sapphire crystal with concentric ring segments engraved on the underside and filled with the brand’s Polar White lume. The engraving is intentionally asymmetric: the number of ring segments increases toward 6 o’clock, balanced by the logo at 12. These engraved sections floating over the dial create the familiar MING “floating” appearance which is always incredible to experience.

The dial itself is familiar MING territory: a sapphire Mosaic pattern laser-etched into different depths of a sapphire substrate using a femtolaser. We’ve seen this execution in pieces like the 20.11 Mosaic and 20.01 S2, and the Starfield’s pattern most closely resembles the more triangular geometry of the 20.01 S2. The hands are metallic blue and use blue-emission Super-LumiNova. The hour hand has a larger lume plot, while the minute hand uses a much slimmer, border-style lume application.

Overall, the dial is comparatively simple by MING standards. None of the materials or design moves are new, but the restraint works in the context of an integrated-bracelet watch, where the case and bracelet are meant to carry more of the visual weight.

Lume performance is mixed. The Polar White elements fade sooner than the hands. The HyCeram case inserts are also relatively weak and somewhat patchy, though that may be specific to the prototype. The hands retain legibility longer, but the narrow minute-hand lume means the hour hand is the only element that remains clearly readable deep into the night.

Compared with the Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 and the Christopher Ward C12 Loco, the Starfield’s lume is adequate but unremarkable. If there’s one area where it objectively under-performs, it’s lume, and that has been common with recentgeneration MINGs.

The Star(field) of the Show

Let’s move to my favorite aspect of this watch, and the reason it’s named the way it is: the case-back. Instead of a conventional exhibition back, the Starfield uses a contrasting black (DLC coated?) case-back with a sapphire window that’s been “blacked out” by a dark layer underneath the crystal and interrupted by narrow streak-like cutouts.

Inside is MING’s Vaucher for MING Cal. 3002.M1, a custom-branded execution of Vaucher’s VMF3002 platform. The VMF is a niche movement, but is used by brands like Parmigiani Fleurier, Hermes, Speake Marin, etc. It is somewhat of a high-end work-horse movement with 50 hours of power reserve, and a 4Hz rate. It is a double-barrel automatic movement with a free sprung balance, and looks fairly well finished if you could see it at all.

But none of that is what you notice first, because MING developed a proprietary rotor specifically to create the Starfield animation. When the rotor spins (wrist motion or crown winding), a luminous white pattern behind those streak cutouts streaks and blurs into a “warp speed” effect: and it’s especially pronounced in the dark thanks to Super-LumiNova X1 on the animated element. In my opinion, this is one of the most memorable visual experiences MING has ever delivered, and I like that it doesn’t depend on darkness to impress: the streaking effect is impressive in daylight too, even if the lume obviously turns it up a notch at night.

Who Is It For?

At this point, MING’s trajectory is hard to ignore. Between steadily increasing prices, US tariffs, and the USD weakening against the CHF, MING is quickly becoming a brand that’s no longer accessible to everyone who might want one. That said, the 19,500 CHF ask for the 56.00 Starfield feels defensible if you place it in its competitive set against watches like the Moser Streamliner (21,900 CHF), Czapek Antarctique (22,400 CHF), Arnold & Son Longitude ($29,300), Gerald Charles Masterlink ($23,900), and so on.

In this part of the market, you’re not just paying for “an integrated bracelet watch”. Aside from the hype tax you’re paying to play in this genre, you should be paying for design that feels intentional, mechanical solutions that make the watch wear correctly, and a level of execution that doesn’t leave you mentally drafting a list of things the brand should fix in version two. But the Starfield does a great job at meeting those expectations. Before I handled it, I wasn’t fully convinced it would feel meaningfully different from the growing pile of modern integrated-bracelet releases. In hand, I quickly changed my mind. This is a watch that’s designed to feel good on the wrist first, and look distinctive. The aesthetic might not be as radically original as MING at its most experimental, but it’s still original enough within this genre to stand comfortably among the more creative entrants.

If you’re the kind of collector who loves the integrated-bracelet category but is tired of familiar silhouettes, the Starfield makes a strong case. It’s unusual without being random, and it feels authentic in the way it applies MING’s design language to this format. And the case-back animation alone is the kind of experience that makes the watch feel like it has an identity already.

Of course, the practical problem is that this one is already sold out. With only 20 pieces made, people who now want a Starfield won’t be able to buy one. But if the 56.00 was the proof of concept, there will almost certainly be variations down the road.


text

The post MING 56.00 Starfield appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
When Should You Service Your Luxury Watch? https://rkwatchservice.com/when-should-you-service-your-luxury-watch/ Mon, 13 Oct 2025 10:50:34 +0000 https://www.tictocman.com/?p=33556 Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
tictocman

Luxury watches are precise, intricate instruments that require regular maintenance to perform at their best. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches all benefit from routine servicing, but many owners aren’t sure when or why it’s necessary. Signs Your Watch Needs Servicing You should consider servicing your watch if you notice: Inaccurate timekeeping (running fast or slow)...

The post When Should You Service Your Luxury Watch? appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
tictocman

TIC TOC MAN TIC TOC MAN

Luxury watches are precise, intricate instruments that require regular maintenance to perform at their best. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches all benefit from routine servicing, but many owners aren’t sure when or why it’s necessary.

Signs Your Watch Needs Servicing

You should consider servicing your watch if you notice:

  • Inaccurate timekeeping (running fast or slow)
  • Moisture or condensation under the crystal
  • Unusual noises from the movement
  • Worn or damaged straps or bracelets
  • It has been more than 5 years since your last service

For vintage watches, servicing is particularly important to preserve mechanical integrity, value, and originality.

What’s Included in a Full Watch Service?

A full service by qualified, expert watchmakers like TicTocMan includes:

  1. Complete Disassembly – The watch is fully taken apart to access the movement and all components.
  2. Ultrasonic Cleaning – Case, bracelet, and movement parts are cleaned to remove dust, oil, and residue.
  3. Inspection & Replacement of Worn Parts – Any damaged or worn parts are replaced with genuine components.
  4. Lubrication – Movement is lubricated to reduce friction and extend lifespan.
  5. Reassembly & Calibration – Watch is carefully reassembled, calibrated, and tested for accuracy.
  6. Water Resistance Testing – Ensures your watch remains protected against moisture.
  7. Polishing & Finishing – Case and bracelet are polished to restore the original look (optional for vintage watches).

Servicing by Brand

Rolex

Rolex recommends servicing every 5–10 years depending on usage. Popular models such as Submariner Servicing, Datejust service, Daytona service, GMT-Master II Service, and Explorer require precision care to maintain water resistance and value.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe watches, including Nautilus, Aquanaut, and Calatrava, are extremely delicate. Regular servicing preserves both mechanical performance and collectible value, especially for vintage models.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models contain complex movements that benefit from professional servicing every 4–6 years, ensuring longevity and performance.

Vintage Watches

Vintage watches require extra attention: components may be rare, fragile, or handmade. Expert watchmakers at TicTocMan have the knowledge to service vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, keeping them functional and authentic. Many watchmakers do not provide vintage watch servicing due to complexity.

Why Servicing Is Important

Regular servicing is not just about keeping your watch ticking:

  • Protects Value – Luxury watches are investments. A serviced watch retains or even increases in value.
  • Prevents Damage – Small issues caught early prevent costly repairs later.
  • Maintains Accuracy – Precision movements need lubrication and calibration to remain reliable.
  • Preserves Longevity – Serviced watches can last decades or even generations.

TicTocMan: Expert Watch Servicing in the UK

At TicTocMan, all services are carried out by qualified, experienced watchmakers specialising in luxury Swiss watches. Whether it’s a Rolex Submariner, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, or a treasured vintage timepiece, every watch receives:

  • Detailed inspection and diagnosis
  • Full mechanical servicing
  • Genuine replacement parts when needed
  • Careful reassembly and final testing

With fast turnaround times, competitive pricing, and expert care, TicTocMan has become the trusted choice for watch collectors, resellers, and everyday owners across the UK.

FAQ – Watch Servicing

Q: How often should I service my luxury watch?
A: Typically every 4–10 years, depending on brand, model, and usage. Vintage watches may require more frequent attention.

Q: What does a full watch service include?
A: Cleaning, disassembly, lubrication, replacement of worn parts, calibration, water resistance testing, and optional polishing.

Q: Does servicing affect my watch’s value?
A: Yes – regular servicing by qualified experts preserves or even increases the value of your watch, particularly vintage and collectible models.

Q: Can TicTocMan service vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet?
A: Absolutely. Our experts specialise in luxury and vintage watches, using genuine parts and proven techniques.

text

The post When Should You Service Your Luxury Watch? appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
TicTocMan vs Brand-Authorised Servicing: What Luxury Watch Owners Need to Know https://rkwatchservice.com/tictocman-vs-brand-authorised-servicing-what-luxury-watch-owners-need-to-know/ Mon, 13 Oct 2025 10:42:11 +0000 https://www.tictocman.com/?p=33553 Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
tictocman

Owning a Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet is an investment, and servicing is critical to protect performance and value. But do you really need to go through the brand-authorised service centre, or is an expert independent watchmaker like TicTocMan a better option? Many collectors, resellers, and watch enthusiasts in the UK are discovering the benefits of choosing qualified, independent servicing without compromising quality....

The post TicTocMan vs Brand-Authorised Servicing: What Luxury Watch Owners Need to Know appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
tictocman

TIC TOC MAN TIC TOC MAN

Owning a Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet is an investment, and servicing is critical to protect performance and value. But do you really need to go through the brand-authorised service centre, or is an expert independent watchmaker like TicTocMan a better option?

Many collectors, resellers, and watch enthusiasts in the UK are discovering the benefits of choosing qualified, independent servicing without compromising quality.

Why Brand-Authorised Servicing Isn’t Always the Only Option

Brand-authorised centres like Rolex Service Centres or Patek Philippe Authorised Service Points offer official servicing with genuine parts. But there are trade-offs:

  • Cost: Brand-authorised servicing can range from £600–£1,500+ depending on the model, with vintage watches often costing more.
  • Turnaround Time: Services often take 6–12 weeks or longer.
  • Restrictions: Watches with aftermarket parts or vintage modifications may be refused.
  • Limited Flexibility: Collectors and resellers who need quick servicing may find brand centres inflexible.

Why Resellers and Collectors Choose TicTocMan

Independent experts like TicTocMan are increasingly trusted by resellers, collectors, and everyday owners for several reasons:

  1. Qualified, Experienced Watchmakers
    TicTocMan’s team specialises in Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches. Every service is handled by fully qualified experts with years of experience.
  2. Faster Turnaround
    Unlike brand-authorised centres, TicTocMan offers quicker servicing, ideal for resellers preparing watches for sale or collectors who want minimal downtime.
  3. Competitive Pricing
    Services are more affordable than official brand centres, without compromising on quality or using non-genuine parts.
  4. Flexible for Vintage Watches
    Vintage Rolex Submariners, Patek Philippe Calatravas, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks often require special care. TicTocMan can service rare or older watches that brand centres may reject.
  5. Trusted by Resellers
    Many UK resellers rely on TicTocMan to maintain value, accuracy, and aesthetic condition of luxury watches before resale.

What’s Included in TicTocMan’s Full Luxury Watch Service

Whether it’s a Rolex Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, or vintage piece, TicTocMan’s full service includes:

  • Complete disassembly and inspection of the movement
  • Ultrasonic cleaning of case, bracelet, and movement components
  • Replacement of worn or damaged parts with genuine components
  • Lubrication and reassembly
  • Calibration and precision testing
  • Water resistance testing
  • Optional polishing and finishing

This ensures your watch maintains accuracy, water resistance, and long-term reliability.

Brand-Authorised vs TicTocMan at a Glance

Feature Brand-Authorised TicTocMan Experts
Cost £600–£1,500+ More affordable
Turnaround 6–12 weeks Faster
Flexibility Limited, may refuse aftermarket or vintage Highly flexible
Expertise Brand-trained Qualified, experienced, specialising in multiple brands & vintage
Reseller-Friendly Not ideal Trusted by resellers & collectors
Genuine Parts Yes Yes (where applicable)

Final Thoughts

For Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and vintage watches, choosing between brand-authorised servicing and an independent expert like TicTocMan depends on your priorities:

  • Want official branding and warranty coverage? Go brand-authorised.
  • Want faster, cost-effective, qualified expert servicing, trusted by resellers and collectors? TicTocMan is the smart choice.

By choosing TicTocMan, you get qualified watchmakers, genuine care, and expert service that protects both your watch’s performance and investment value.

FAQ – Choosing Between Brand Service & TicTocMan

Q: Is TicTocMan authorised by Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet?
A: While independent, TicTocMan’s qualified experts use genuine components and follow brand-level servicing standards.

Q: Can TicTocMan service vintage luxury watches?
A: Absolutely. TicTocMan specialises in vintage models, preserving originality and value.

Q: How long does a full service take?
A: Usually much faster than brand centres, with exact timing depending on the model and complexity.

Q: Does servicing with TicTocMan affect warranty or resale value?
A: Independent expert servicing can maintain or even enhance resale value, especially for vintage and collectable watches.

text

The post TicTocMan vs Brand-Authorised Servicing: What Luxury Watch Owners Need to Know appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Opinion: Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary https://rkwatchservice.com/opinion-patek-philippe-nautilus-40th-anniversary/ Tue, 04 Oct 2016 11:20:35 +0000 http://www.woundforlife.com/?p=5735 Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
Dean Kolnick

If there's anything that can get Dean riled up enough to write an opinion piece, it's a controversial watch from Patek. Luckily, there's two of them to write about. Read up on his thoughts of the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Anniversary watches.

The post Opinion: Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary appeared first on Wound For Life.

The post Opinion: Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
Dean Kolnick

Wound For Life Wound For Life

Ahh, the new Patek Philippe Nautilius 40th Anniversary pieces. What an easy, easy target to take some pot shots at one of the most venerable and respected horological houses ever. You know what? I am only partially going to take the bait here.

The real easy target of the two is the chronograph, aka ref. 5976/1G. Now, as has been mentioned elsewhere, you’d be forgiven for thinking this was a tweaked 5980 as it has the same movement and looks grossly the same in the press release as its predecessor. But no, the booger on the lip of this watch is the fact that its dial diameter is 44mm. Sure, people are throwing around this 49.25mm number because of the case wings, but the watch is not really almost 50mm (aka, a Graham). Still, a 44mm nautilus is an affront to the memory of Gerald Genta and really, an offensive way to honor his creation’s 40th anniversary. Nonetheless, I’m sure there are enough #richdicks/upper class twits out there that are salivating over the prospect of a 44mm white gold LE nautilus. I hope they enjoy it.

nautilus_5711

The other booger on the lip, so to speak, of both these watches is the embossed text on the dials. I don’t mind the diamond markers in the least. The extra text however is not so easily judged. The dial of the 5711/1A is schizophrenic in regards to its own color, reflection and overall appearance. While the text layout itself is unsightly, especially on the chronograph, it might actually not be quite so detrimental when viewed in the metal on that blue dial. I am quite certain you won’t see it prominently from a distance. So, let’s reserve our judgement there until people really start showing it in real life.
 patek-philippe-nautilus-5711_40th-anniversary-01
Let’s talk about the 5711P a little more. This is the watch many of us Nautilus fans were expecting with the addition of some extra text and diamond markers. Many of our discussions leading up to this release went something like, “What are they gonna do for the anniversary?” Followed by, “I have no idea, you can’t really improve upon the 5711.” So let’s give PP credit there. They made a platinum special edition that will be somewhat more accessible than the 5711P has been in the past and didn’t really mess around too much otherwise (assuming of course that the added dial text is relatively unobtrusive).

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmailby feather

The post Opinion: Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary appeared first on Wound For Life.

text

The post Opinion: Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Market Watch(ing): Variety for Days https://rkwatchservice.com/market-watching-variety-for-days/ Fri, 16 Sep 2016 14:40:28 +0000 http://www.woundforlife.com/?p=5631 Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
W4L Team

The weather is all over the place this time of year, so we wanted to make sure you had the right watch for any situation. Check out the variety in this week's Market Watch(ing) lineup!

The post Market Watch(ing): Variety for Days appeared first on Wound For Life.

The post Market Watch(ing): Variety for Days appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>
Watch Repair & Restoration Services in Northbrook & North Chicago Suburbs. Contact us for a free estimate at 224-213-7371. Learn more from our news blog.
RK Watch Service - Watch Repair & Restoration Service
W4L Team

Wound For Life Wound For Life

Here we go, everyone; Market Watch(ing) is once again live and kicking! Sometimes we end up with a theme, each of us picking somewhat similar watches. However, this week, the theme is “no theme”. That’s right, we’re all over the map and it’s awesome. No more wasting time, let’s get to the watches.

Neil’s Picks

1961 Zenith Pilot Cal. 40

1961 Zenith Pilot Cal. 40

Vintage pilot watches come in many forms. While I traditionally think of IWC, Smiths, Brietling or others, it’s this Zenith that made me take notice right when I saw it. Immediately striking is the salmon dial, a color not often seen in pilots watches – let alone in this condition. It’s extremely sharp all around with no corrosion around the markers or hands. The case is not large but at 34mm it’s the right size for a vintage pilot watch. In addition, the 19mm lugs that extend decently beyond the case will help this wear quite well on the wrist. A minimal sub dial at 6 helps to round out this beautifully executed piece. The manual wind Cal. 40 has a long history and often comes up in the same conversation as the venerable Cal 89. It’s rare to see a 55 year old watch that looks this good, and at this price. Justin over at WatchSteez does it yet again, bringing us a very unique piece at a great value.

$1,050

 

TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11

TAG Heuer Monaco

Vintage Heuers are classic, however the modern TAG Heuer counterparts just don’t seem to have soul of the originals. One modern piece that still manages to draw me in, however, is the Monaco. Obviously this is because it’s such a faithful homage to the original. TAG stepped up their game recently with this release of the Monaco Calibre 11, which is a near identical recreation of the original. Nearly every aspect is true to the vintage Monaco from the blue color of the dial, the horizontal markers, crown on the left side of the case, and they even had the foresight to remove TAG from the dial. It still has the timeless looks and is a fraction of the cost of an original. Throw this on a vintage rally strap and you have a winner. It shows almost no wear but nothing some serious racing can’t fix! It’s what Steve McQueen would want.

$2,500

 

Isaac’s Picks

Helbros Skin Diver

helbros-skin-diver

Continuing last week’s vintage diver theme, my first pick this week is an “invincible” dive watch known as a Helbros Skin Diver, and it comes from eBay. This is an unbelievably cool piece, with stark arrow hands, and it’s in terrific shape, with sharp looking lugs, and what I assume is the original bracelet, given how old it looks to be. According to my research, these Skin Divers are apparently quite rare, so to find one that looks to have been preserved nicely over the years, let alone one on a vintage steel bracelet, is a unique opportunity.

$997.97 or Make Offer

 

Omega Brochure

omega-brochure-ebay

Every week, I try to stick to just watches from my daily searches, but these pamphlets and original brochures have a nasty way of making it into the roundup. What we’ve got here is an owner’s manual that would’ve been included in the sale of an Omega chronograph, much like the 2998 and other stunning references we see gracing this original document’s pages. Again, things like this are admittedly useless to the average collector, but if you’re focused on Omega chronographs, or you’re currently on a Speedmaster kick, I’m sure this would make a lovely addition to any focused collection. Oh, and, the seller says it’s ultra rare. The rarest, in fact.

Bid Now

 

Dean’s Picks

Patek Philippe 5040G

keystone patek philippe 5040

It might sound insane to talk about value propositions when it comes to wristwatches that cost more than most people’s cars. But then again, here we are. The Keystone has a watch that caught my eye. IMHO, the Patek 3940 in white metal might be the perfect watch. Its size and wearability are virtually unparalleled, especially in a complicated watch such as a perpetual calendar. If I had one complaint vis-á-vis the 3940, it’s that you can’t have it with a black dial (as far as I know, and as far as your name isn’t Clapton or Singer). White metal 3940s run in the $40k range, generally speaking. This watch at The Keystone is a Patek Perpetual Calendar powered by the same 240-Q moment, in white gold…with a black dial. Now, the tonneau shaped case isn’t for everyone but I think that adds to the allure. On a raw piece of black cordovan this thing would just sing. Now, if you’re buying ANY piece of modern *ahem* “haute horology”, you really should be looking at watches with boxes and papers and all the ephemera like the little pusher thingy, and I assume that this watch is naked which may explain the sub $40k price a little bit, but I for one would like to get a little more information on condition and accessories as these things make a big difference in value.

$37,500

Heuer Camaro

heuer camaro caso watches

Another watch that is, IMHO, similarly exceptionally proportioned and relatively undervalued is the Heuer Camaro. Again, it’s got a funk-ily shaped case that might be less appealing to the masses, but it speaks to me. Caso Watches has a black dialed Camaro which looks to have a sharp case with the original sunburst factory finish intact. A lot of the Camaros you see out there are worn and polished to the smoothness of a river rock. No so the with this one as far as I can tell from the somewhat unsatisfying photos. Unfortunately, Caso hasn’t caught on with the trend of listing its prices online as many more retailers are doing these days, so you will have to inquire.

Inquire for Price

 

Shane’s Picks

Tudor Day-Date Linen Dial

tudor-day-date-linen-dial

You ever lust after a Rolex Day-Date in steel, and then realize they don’t make one? Well, I’m sure someone has. Luckily, little brother Tudor came to the rescue. Here we have one of Tudor’s Day-Date references, the 94510, with a sweet blue linen dial. Often times, Tudor DDs are seen with boring silver dials, but the blue linen here really sets the watch off. Throw in a bracelet, engine-turned bezel, and original papers, and you’re looking at a winner.

$2,150

 

Harvard Clamshell Chronograph

harvard-clamshell

Week in and week out, we remind everyone about our love for vintage chronographs, and here’s yet another. This time it’s a Harvard Clamshell. Rocking a Venus 175, a minty dial, and a minty waterproof case, this is one you don’t see too often. I do think it’s a bit overpriced, but hey, what do I know? Well, I’ll tell you what I know; I know you don’t have to be Harvard-smart to know this is a killer piece.

€4,800

 

Gallet Two-Register Chronograph

gallet-chronograph-wus

I’m feeling a bit saucy today, so I’m stretching my picks out to three this week. Here we have a clean Gallet chronograph for not too many doll-hairs — 2,000 doll-hairs to be exact. With nice Gallets getting more and more expensive (thanks, Vrakas!), this one seems to be a solid deal. I love the marine chronometer style dial, especially the “open 6”, as well as the sharp case. The seller mentions that he thinks the case is plated and not stainless steel, but I don’t necessarily agree. If it’s a ’50s or ’60s watch, there’s no way it would still be coated base metal. At any rate, this one is worth consideration.

$2,000

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmailby feather

The post Market Watch(ing): Variety for Days appeared first on Wound For Life.

text

The post Market Watch(ing): Variety for Days appeared first on RK Watch Service.

]]>