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Disclaimer: This watch was sent to me to review, and I do not need to return it after my review is complete. This watch was given to me without restriction and is not contingent upon a particular outcome for my review. All opinions here are my own, and 1776 Atelier, Hour Precision had no influence over the opinions stated here.

1776 Atelier Mount Vernon: https://1776atelier.com/watches/mount-vernon-aventurine

Hour Precision: https://hourprecision.com

Klok Work: https://www.instagram.com/klokworkllc

Video

Review

1776 Atelier is one of the more compelling young American independents to emerge in the past couple of years because they’ve built their brand around the harder, less glamorous work of actually advancing the state of American watchmaking. The name is doing some of that signaling up front. “1776” is an overt nod to the country’s origin story, but it’s also a mission statement: build capability here, expand what can be made here, and do it in a way that collectors can realistically participate in.

The brand was founded by Jason Lu, a self-taught watchmaker who has spent years learning by proximity, absorbing ideas from accomplished watchmakers and engineers across the U.S. and Germany, including time spent around the DK Precision Mechanics ecosystem. I’ve also met Jason in person, and what stood out immediately was how humble he is. He’s extremely passionate about watches, but is especially motivated to build great watches while creating as much value in America as possible. And that humility isn’t performative: after about twenty minutes of pestering him, I realized he’s doing far more than the public-facing role. He handles most of the hand finishing, something that isn’t emphasized on the brand’s website, but feels very much worth mentioning in this category of watchmaking.

The other half of the story is Zach Smith. I’ve been following Zach on Instagram for years, and he’s earned a deep level of respect from me because his approach to “making stuff in America” is refreshingly practical too. He’s an engineer, a Certified WOSTEP watchmaker, and a manufacturer. Zach runs Hour Precision, but he’s also a formal partner to Jason within 1776 Atelier, and his work has helped bring all of the brand’s watches to life, including their excellent new release, the Montpelier.

If you ask me, there’s a real difference between building an “artisanal” watch in America for $70,000-$100,000 and building a sustainable watch brand that meaningfully elevates the state of watchmaking here: for both the people making these components and the people buying the watches. I think creators like Jason Lu, Zach Smith, Roland Murphy at RGM, and brands like SeL may ultimately do more to reshape American watchmaking than a boutique maker catering to the 1% of the 1%…but hey, that’s just my opinion.

Within the current lineup, the Mount Vernon is the brand’s most successful product, and it feels a bit like an appetizer for what’s coming. It’s where you can start to see how real value is created when components are manufactured domestically; and then finished correctly, beautifully, and at a price that doesn’t automatically exclude most serious enthusiasts.

The watch on hand here is the Mount Vernon Aventurine, fitted with upgrades including American Gun Scroll Engraving (+$1600) on the movement (done by Klok Work, also in the United States) and Triple Snailing (+$375) on the crown and ratchet wheels, bringing the total price of this configuration to $6,075. The standard Mount Vernon, with more traditional finishing and no engraving, starts at $3,900, and even in that form, the movement still carries a meaningful amount of hand work, and looks genuinely impressive for the category.

Let’s check it out!

Movement

I typically discuss the movement towards the end of my reviews, but with this piece, the movement is the reason you buy this watch, the movement shows off what the brand does best, and the movement gives you a true taste of what the brand can do. Powering the watch is the hand-wound Caliber 621.1788, built on the familiar Unitas/ETA 6498 architecture: a big, simple, traditional layout that is still the foundation of some of the most impressive indie watches on the market today. It runs at 3Hz with a 48-hour power reserve, and keeps the classic small seconds at 6 o’clock.

The main-plate and bridges are manufactured in Ohio by Zach, with Hour Precision functioning as the brand’s in-house movement manufacturing capability, while the majority of the hand finishing is executed by Jason in Texas (with some overlap in duties, since Zach is also a watchmaker).

Visually, the movement leans hard into contrast: with a black rhodium main-plate, paired with rose gold-finished elements including the balance bridge, nameplate, and parts of the gear train. All the screws are black polished, and even though the dial is made of Aventurine, the movement delivers a more dynamic visual experience. There is also hand-executed anglage on all exposed edges, graining on the gear train and a matte finished movement base.

Here, the most notable aesthetic upgrade is the American Gun Scroll engraving option. The team described that pattern as taking roughly two to two and a half full days of engraving work, carved scroll-by-scroll so each example ends up slightly unique.

Beyond the engraving itself, the finishing details are where the movement starts to feel more serious than its price might suggest: there are three interior angles that are executed entirely by hand using traditional methods.

The separation between finishes is also deliberately emphasized, including a contrast between mirror-polished bevels and adjacent surfaces that are kept satin or frosted and sharply defined. And that creates an incredible sense of depth and detail, particularly when looking at it up close. Finally, this piece features snailing on the winding wheels, with polished teeth – triple snailing to the ratchet wheel and the crown wheel remains double-snailed due to its size. In terms of timekeeping, this movement was running at a very healthy and accurate +3 spd.

And importantly, this isn’t where the story ends. 1776 has already shown what it can do when it steps beyond the familiar 6498 template with the Montpelier, which brings a more intricate, proprietary architecture to the table, a skeletonized three-quarter bridge and balance bridge, and a finishing spec that reads like a clear step up from the Mount Vernon while still leaning on the same core strengths: Hour Precision’s manufacturing capability and Jason’s bench work. But this time also enlisting DK Precision Mechanics. Even more ambitious is what they’re developing in parallel: the brand has been openly working toward its own free-sprung balance, and has gone a step further by experimenting with a star-shaped balance design, which is a remarkably bold endeavor for a team this small.

Since there won’t be any lume comparisons here, I thought it would be interesting to put this movement beside some other beautiful movements, such as the Patek Philippe Cal. 240, Habring A11GSP and Christopher Ward CW003. The Mount Vernon certainly makes a compelling case with just how attractive it looks, and even makes the Habring look a bit dull in comparison, even though I absolutely adore that movement.

Case

I measured the case to be 40.25mm in diameter, 48.5mm lug-to-lug, and 11.3mm thick, with a 20mm lug width, dimensions that make it a bit large for the genre it is in, but yet comfortable and surprisingly well balanced. This Swiss Made case is made entirely of stainless steel and feels solid and well-constructed. Where some brands use the case as a signature design element, 1776 Atelier plays it safe here. The silhouette is traditional and, in profile and proportion, reminiscent of watches like Laine’s V38, down to the fully polished, classically styled execution.

It’s a clean, dressy package: no sculpted mid-case, no contrasting brushing, and little in the way of distinctive geometry. The build quality and finishing is well done, but it feels more selected than designed. The 6.5mm push-pull crown at 3 o’clock is sized appropriately and signed. And while the design may not break new ground, it is handled competently. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating keeps the dial clear, and the screw-in exhibition case-back shows off a movement that usefully fills the case footprint perfectly. Water resistance is 30 meters: unremarkable, but typical for this style of watch.

If you want the case to feel more personal, they offer hand case engraving as an up-charge, turning the otherwise conservative exterior into something genuinely one-off; but I believe the skill, effort and costs associated with hand engraving a case deserves a customer who will truly appreciate it.

Dial

The dial design follows the well-trodden formula of independent watchmaking: a guilloché inner dial, small seconds at six o’clock, Breguet numerals, and an applied nameplate beneath twelve. That said, it is a very attractive layout, and perhaps why it has become somewhat of a classic template for watchmakers. This particular piece features their Aventurine and guilloché dial combo.

Both the dial and hands are sourced from Germany, though I can easily imagine these components being produced locally as the brand matures and develops more domestic capability – we’ve already seen Zach Smith and Hour Precision deliver a beautiful hand set for Cornell Watch Company. The dial itself is very well executed, with a pleasing contrast between the cosmic Aventurine outer ring and the inner white guilloché, which, while stamped rather than hand-turned, looks crisp and consistent.

The two sections are divided by a brushed and raised metal ring, adding dimensionality alongside the bold applied Breguet numerals, which are vertically brushed and sharply cut. The small seconds subdial at six o’clock features its own distinct stamped guilloché pattern, framed by another brushed ring for visual continuity, while a raised, brushed minute track wraps up the composition with legible markings for minutes and five minute increments. Together, the layered textures, finishes, and elevations create depth and character, making the dial far more engaging than its conventional design might suggest.

The handset is nicely finished with distinct facets that help with legibility, though I do wish the hour and minute hands extended a touch further; with the hour hand closer to the edge of the guilloché center and the minute hand out to the minute track for sharper legibility. Still, they don’t feel undersized in practice and remain easy to read. The brand’s logo is pad-printed on an applied nameplate under twelve, a familiar but well-executed finishing touch. Overall, the attention to detail and quality control on the dial is very good, and I like that the brand has quite a few options to choose from, with various combinations of materials, textures, and styles.

On The Wrist

On my 6.75-inch wrist, the watch’s 40.25mm diameter and 48.5mm lug-to-lug dimensions work reasonably well, sitting flat and balanced without feeling oversized. That said, given the dressy and traditional nature of the watch, I think trimming 1 to 1.5mm off the diameter and 2 to 3mm off the lug span would have made it noticeably more versatile and wearable for a wider range of wrist sizes. But since this watch is based on the 6498 architecture, there’s only so much smaller they can go without having to completely redesign the movement or choose a much smaller base like the ETA 7001, which would likely introduce a lot of empty space.

In its current form, I would hesitate to recommend it for wrists smaller than 6.25 inches, as the lugs might start to overhang. The 11.3mm overall thickness feels well-proportioned, though shaving off around 1mm could be nice, especially since it’s a manual-wind watch without any extraordinary water resistance.

1776 Atelier offers a variety of American-made straps, and the one supplied with this watch is very nice, paired with a signed deployant clasp. The deployant is of a familiar Omega-style design, feels robust and secure, and the overall presence and comfort on the wrist is excellent.

Wrapping Up

The Mount Vernon isn’t trying to reinvent the dress watch – the case and dial are handsome and well executed, but the design language is fairly conventional, and it won’t satisfy someone chasing novelty in form or layout. Where this watch earns its keep is the movement. The finishing quality, the thought put into the components, and the overall visual coherence on the back are legitimately impressive for the category, and it’s the part of the watch that most clearly communicates what 1776 Atelier is about. Just as importantly, it feels like a preview: the Mount Vernon reads as a stepping stone, and the Montpelier already suggests what this team can do when given a bit more room to create.

And that’s why 1776 remains one to watch (pun intended). Building a sustainable, scalable, practical watch brand in America is a very different challenge than making aggressively artisanal pieces for a tiny sliver of collectors, and 1776 Atelier appears to be aiming for the former without losing the craft. If they stay disciplined and keep executing at this level, they have all the ingredients and the talent to become a meaningful part of modern American watchmaking.

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Beans & Bezels Beans & Bezels

Disclaimer: this video/review was not sponsored by Habring, Infinity Watches CZ or any other entity.

Erwin Tuxedo at Infinity Watches CZ: https://infinitywatches.cz/produkt/habring%c2%b2-erwin-tuxedo/

Video

Part 2: A Brand For Owners

In Part 1, I used the Josef as a kind of “mission statement” watch… an anniversary piece that distills what Habring² is about without feeling like a commemorative novelty. For Part 2, I want to zoom out further and talk about the thing that, more than any single model, has become the Habring fingerprint: the jumping seconds. And I want to do that through the Erwin Tuxedo, because if the Josef shows Habring²’s willingness to be quietly unconventional, the Erwin shows how they can take that same philosophy and express it in something that’s almost deceptively classic.

Before we even get into the Erwin, it’s worth restating something that frames everything Habring² does: they make under 300 watches per year. In a world where brands love to cosplay “small” while producing in the thousands, that scale matters. It means every decision: design, movement architecture, sourcing, service strategy, has to be rational and sustainable. Habring² isn’t building watches to feed hype cycles; they’re building a business that can keep making and servicing watches for decades.

What’s in a name? Habring² isn’t a solo story.

It’s also important that the brand isn’t “Richard Habring, and others in the background”. Maria Habring is fundamental to why Habring² exists as a functioning, durable independent. The “squared” in Habring² isn’t a gimmick, and it was meant to reflect that this is a two-person venture in the truest sense – Richard as the engineer/watchmaker, and Maria as the force behind the operations, customer relationships, and the kind of long-term trust that seal an independents’ fate. This is part of why Habring² has always felt so owner-focused to me. It exists as a small atelier where someone actually has to answer emails, deal with servicing, and stand behind the decisions made at the bench.

The Jumping Seconds: making something niche, reliable, and accessible

A deadbeat (jumping seconds) complication is one of those ideas that sounds almost trivial until you understand what it takes to do it well. Visually it’s straightforward: the seconds hand ticks once per second instead of sweeping. Mechanically, it’s not straightforward at all if you want it to be precise, efficient, and accessible.

Habring² made it into a repeatable, durable, workshop-friendly complication… something you can actually own without feeling like you’re babysitting it. And that seems like a very Richard Habring thing to do: take something historically niche, engineer it in a pragmatic way, and make it attainable for collectors to use, rather than treating it like museum theater.

This is where the brand’s broader context matters. Habring²’s independence has always been pragmatic, but it became even more intentional when the industry shifted. At a certain point, the Swatch Group’s refusal to continue supplying parts forced many small brands to either pivot, shrink, or get creative. Habring² responded by doing what a true engineer would do: they reworked the Valjoux 7750 into a strong in-house base caliber, and built an entire supply chain around it, sourcing components from parts manufacturers in their vicinity and creating a network they could actually rely on. This wasn’t done for marketing purity; it was done so the brand could survive and evolve on its own terms. And Habring² has worked with many notable parts manufacturers over the years, such as DK Precision Mechanics, Fricker, Cador, Estima, Carl Haas, KIF, etc.

Patents & Experiments

It’s also worth remembering that Richard Habring’s portfolio isn’t limited to chronographs or jumping seconds. People might freeze him in the IWC Doppelchronograph era, but his technical curiosity has been wider than that. At IWC, he is credited with involvement in a patent for a mechanical pressure transducer system: essentially a mechanical way to translate pressure into a display mechanism, which sits right in that sweet spot of “this is insanely nerdy and also very real engineering”. This led to the GST Deep One, which was the first ever dive watch to feature a depth gauge.

Then you have Habring²’s own inventions like the Crown Operation System (COS), where a chronograph is actuated through crown interaction rather than traditional pushers. A feature that nobody asked for, but one that makes a compelling case for doing away with unnecessary buttons and more points of exposure to the elements.

And beyond that, Richard has experimented with higher-end horology territory too: tourbillons and repeaters. including their five-minute repeater, which was praised at the time for being more wearable and pragmatic than the typical minute repeater fantasy. This echoes the Habring theme again: even when they enter traditional “haute horology” categories, they do it with a practical mindset rather than a ceremonial one.

Collaborations

On the movement side, they engineering movements for AHCI watchmaker Stefan Kudoke. That’s not a small endorsement. Kudoke has his own strong identity as a finisher and artist, and the fact that Habring² is part of the technical backbone there tells you how much trust exists between independents. Their special edition KudOkTourbi (Kudoke Octopus Tourbillon) was a pretty amazing piece too. On the collaboration-release side, Habring² has quietly built a list that reads like a “collector credibility” index. They’ve done projects with Massena, SJX, Monochrome, and TimeZone, and special editions tied to retailers like Shellman, among others. These aren’t random logo swaps. They tend to happen because Habring² is unusually flexible at low volumes and unusually serious about execution.

And then there’s the collaboration with Jochen Benzinger. Benzinger is one of those artisans whose name immediately signals “real handwork” to anyone deep into independents. The Habring² collaboration with Benzinger is about merging mechanical clarity with artisanal dial and finishing artistry.

Even if you don’t care about awards, they matter as a kind of external signal… especially for a brand that doesn’t shout. Habring² has earned recognition through the GPHG, including major highlights like winning for the Doppel 2.0 (Sports Watch) and later the Felix in the Petite Aiguille category, along with other nominations over the years.

Erwin Tuxedo

All of that brings me to the Erwin Tuxedo, which I think is one of the best “you get it or you don’t” watches in the Habring² lineup. The Erwin platform is where the jumping seconds identity becomes something you can wear every day, and the Tuxedo variant leans into a dressier, high-contrast elegance. On paper, it’s beautifully restrained but in reality, it’s exactly the kind of “simple-looking” watch that you’d expect from Habring².

The case is compact and modern in a way that feels aligned with current tastes. It comes in at 38mm in diameter, with a 45.80mm lug-to-lug that keeps balanced on the wrist. Thickness is a very wearable 10.25mm, paired with a 5.4mm crown and a versatile 20mm lug width, and the head weight comes in at 61 grams, giving it a bit more presence than the Josef without feeling heavy.

But the real personality is in the dial execution. The Tuxedo’s Breguet-style numerals are gorgeous, and what makes it even more interesting is that the typeface was designed once again by Lee Yuen-Rapati. And if you ask me, that continuity matters. It’s not just “we hired a designer.” It’s Habring² building a coherent visual language across their modern releases: typography as identity, not decoration.

Mechanically, the A11 powered Erwin Tuxedo is also where the jumping seconds makes the most sense as an everyday signature. A deadbeat seconds complication is inherently a little odd, and yet when you live with it, it becomes one of those details that makes the watch feel alive in a very different way compared to a quartz watch.

Wrapping Up

Thank you for bearing with me as I try out this new format of review; one that is less of a review and more of an introduction to a brand that I believe to be worth knowing. To me, they represent a version of independent watchmaking that doesn’t get celebrated enough: the version that’s built on engineering competence, serviceability, and long-term credibility, not theatrics and embellishments. The version where the brand’s scale, under 300 watches a year, isn’t a scarcity flex, but simply the natural output of two people making watches on their own terms. The version where collaboration isn’t a marketing stunt, but proof of trust. And the version where complications like jumping seconds, tourbillons, repeaters, or something as weird as COS are approached like engineering problems worth solving.

Hopefully, the Josef told you who Richard Habring is: a watchmaker-engineer whose legacy lives in practical complication design and owner-first thinking. The Erwin Tuxedo shows what Habring² has become: a mature independent brand with intent behind creating a coherent design language, a real mechanical identity, and a philosophy of engineering-forward practicality that feels increasingly rare in modern watchmaking.

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