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At ONVA, we inspect and adjust each movement by hand for quality and timekeeping. There are multiple points checked before a movement is allowed to be used in one of our watches, and considerable labor may be involved to improve the quality of our movements as they are received from suppliers.

One of these verifications has to do with timing stability and overall precision.

You’ll see here two videos. This is an image of the hairspring in the regulator pins. More about that later, but the thing to notice between each video is how much the spring is moving in between the pins.

•The first video has notably more movement than the second.
•The second video was taken after adjusting the regulating pins— less movement between the pins is preferred.

Why does this matter?

A hairspring has two measurable lengths— the physical length (this is fixed and how the spring is installed, mounted at the stud next to regulator pins and the collet on balance staff) and the functional length (adjustable, how much of the spring is being used to affect the oscillator). The functional length of the hairspring affects how fast or slow the watch will run. The longer the functional length, the slower, the shorter the functional length, the faster.

When the hairspring contacts the regulator pins, the functional length is at those pins, and the rate changes from vibrating at the stud mounting alone. When the spring passes between the two pins, temporarily, the timing changes as the functional length for a few milliseconds is actually the stud for the time the spring is not contacting the regulator pins. This results in significant positional errors as gravity will make the spring passage between the pins much slower in the stem positions.

By closing the regulator pins, the spring has a more consistent vibration point, and the functional length is more regular. It’s important that the spring still has some room to “breathe” between the pins, albeit small, so that the spring is not damaged when moving the regulator pins for more precise timing adjustments.

This will significantly improve the delta (difference between full wind and half wind), and overall rate stability.

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Hand setting is done by hand— but that’s not why we call it hand setting. It’s because we’re setting the hands of the watch…

The hand setting tool helps ensure alignment and that the setting force can be controlled gradually— hands are friction-fit onto their posts that turn within the movement. They turn mechanical movement into a visual display to tell the time.

The hand setting movement holder features an adjustable jewel-support, to hold the position of the jewel for seconds wheel while the seconds hand is set. As jewels are also friction-fit, they are easily pushed out of place during this step from the forces. An aperture is cut into the side of the movement holder to verify the position of the jewel support. The hour hand (mounts to hour wheel) and minute hand (mounts to cannon pinion) are supported within the movement’s structure and do not require external support.

Multiple checks must be made during hand setting. The checks are the following:

•Is the dial flush and securely attached?

•Are the hands clean and in good condition?

•Is the movement fully wound? This affects hand alignment if there is tension on the gear train or not.

•Has the jewel support been set up correctly?

•Where is midnight….? Advance time setting until the date jumps to find it…

•Select the correct pusher and partially set the hour hand. We then verify date jump, adjust hand position as needed, then bring the hand to full seating (flush with post). Verify flatness (parallelism) to dial, adjust hand as necessary. Repeat for minute hand and seconds hand.

•Verify hand parallelism relative to each other. No two hands can be touching.

•Check total vertical travel of seconds hand to ensure it does not touch the crystal in dial-down position. Set accordingly…

•Check hand alignment— at ONVA, we check that hands align at 6:00, 7:38, and 12:00.

•Date jump tolerance is within -3/+5 minutes of midnight during time setting.

This is before final casing processes, but hand setting quality is something we take very personally. The hands are what give watches their purpose and they should be set beautifully.

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Last week, ONVA is proud to have delivered some of our first orders. More on the way, don’t worry! Thank you to everyone for the support.

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A quick update for everyone and our pre-order clients:

March 1st, 2025— Pre-orders launched for the ONVA Utility!

After several months of development, we were looking forward to the big day.

Within hours of opening our orders, we received several. Thank you for all your support. We have more orders than expected, and we are working on filling them now. We expect to have all orders shipped by the second week in April.

During this time, we’ll provide some details about our manufacturing process, how a watch works, and the benefits you have in choosing ONVA as your watch.

Backed by a 5 year guarantee, we’re proud to offer complete watch repair services as well as advanced technical know-how about your watch.

Thank you again and I’m looking forward to hearing your reactions when you get your watch!

Back to the workbench,

Mitchel

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ONVA Caliber 1: an industry-proven construction, this movement was designed to hold precision and maintain reliability under the most demanding conditions.

Featuring a 38 hour power reserve, 28,800 VPH beat rate for stability, 25 jewel bearings for long term performance, and bi-directional automatic winding, this is our flagship movement.

We serialize each movement under the balance wheel, seen here is movement 0001. This allows us to keep a service record of each movement, for years to come. These service archives will be available upon request, should you acquire a pre-owned ONVA in the future.

Each ONVA movement is backed by a 5 year guarantee. We recommend service every 5 years to keep your ONVA in the best shape possible, even though it will be running perfectly.

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The Utility is crafted from a 316L stainless steel case for corrosion-resistance and long term use in harsh environments. The full-satin finishes are practical and modern, with a touch of subtle elegance.
Our watch also features:
•A virtually scratch-proof sapphire crystal with antireflective coating to reduce glare and enhance legibility.
•A screw-down crown and caseback which ensure 200m/660ft of water resistance.
•38mm case diameter
•20mm lug width for strap compatibility.
•14mm thickness from the caseback to top of the domed crystal
•47mm “lug to lug,” or the total length of the case from top to bottom on the wrist.

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ONVA Watches began as a consulting firm for the watch industry in 2023. Now, we’re launching our own timepieces—starting with the Utility.

Built for everyday wear, the Utility is designed to handle life’s challenges while looking sharp on your wrist.

As a watchmaker-owned brand, we put function, craftsmanship, and exceptional service first. That’s why every ONVA watch comes with a 5-year guarantee—just reach out, and we’ll take care of you.

ONVA is the vision of Mitchel, a trained watchmaker from Detroit who studied at Lititz Watch Technicum and has spent nearly a decade in the industry. Combining the best quality components made to our specifications, each ONVA Utility is hand-assembled in the United States by Mitchel himself.

This is just the beginning. We can’t wait to share what’s next! Pre-orders for the Utility will be announced later this month.

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The last few years in business have truly inspired me. Let me share what I’ve been seeing.

From Collector to Watchmaker to Consultant

My journey started with a passion for watches—first as a collector, then as a watchmaker, and eventually as a consultant to microbrands. Each step has been the time of my life, allowing me to work alongside specialists who bring watches to life: engineers, product designers, photographers, writers, marketing experts, watchmakers, technicians, assemblers, estimators, logistics professionals, and sales associates—the people who turn an idea into something you can hold in your hands.

The Magic of a Watch Brand

There’s something incredible about watching a concept evolve into a physical product, and from that product, the birth of a brand with its own identity, personality, and loyal following. The industry is filled with innovation, creative risks, and fresh ideas, but also challenges—whether a brand is scaling up or intentionally staying small.

I’ve seen industry trends shift, demand rise and fall, and even the impact of a single social media post reshaping an entire brand’s trajectory. We’re living in a golden age of independent watchmaking, where a great design, a compelling story, and a strong connection with customers can launch a microbrand into something truly special.

An Industry in Motion

The pace of the watch industry today is relentless. Watch fairs and industry events bring together the best minds in horology. New partnerships, buyouts, and strategic shifts continue to reshape the landscape. YouTube watch enthusiasts are driving conversations and setting trends. And amidst all of this, we’re seeing the resurgence of brick-and-mortar retail, proving that watch lovers still crave a tactile, personal connection with their timepieces.

With everything happening, one question keeps coming to mind: Where does it all lead?

Why ONVA is Evolving

I realized I couldn’t hold out any longer. I want to create.

After years of consulting, advising, and supporting brands, it’s time to apply that experience to something of my own. ONVA has been a bridge between expertise and execution, but now it’s evolving. We’re stepping beyond consulting and into watchmaking—building something that reflects everything I’ve learned and love about this industry.

This is just the beginning, and I couldn’t be more excited for what’s ahead. ONVA is becoming a watch brand.

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Summary:

• Many users experience when winding the watch, there is suddenly though occasionally, a terrible and loud clicking noise.

• Many users caution to be careful not to overwind the watch, as is possible with manually wound watches. Despite ensuring not to overwind the watch, some users reported the watch no longer running after the sharp noise.

• The cause of power loss is a riveting problem between the Great Wheel and its pinion. The barrel drives the great pinion under significant torque, but the rivet is weak, and the distribution of power to the rest of the gear train is disrupted when the rivet slips, creating a large power loss from the great pinion and great wheel.

• Secondarily, damage occurs between the sliding and winding pinions, on the Breguet teeth. This is the result of the sudden loss of tension between the two sets of teeth when winding, allowing them to disengage and slide across each other.

• I’m working on the (2801) version, though also exists is the updated caliber (H50). The issue is the same for both, likely more prevalent with the H50 because the spring holds higher torque for its longer power reserve, and the great wheel rivet can’t handle it. The wheel can’t even handle the lower torque of the 2801 mainspring.

Repair interventions:

• Replacement of all damaged components is required. A new sliding and winding pinion are essential.

• Replacement of the great wheel, though not visibly damaged, is necessary as it is the cause of the problem. The curious thing is if the new wheel will exhibit the same problem since the manufacturing process is why the component is failing, seen across many mass-produced examples.

• Sourcing of spare parts: only brand-authorized parts should be used, though I am running some experiments on brand-alternate part longevity.

• Alternatively, the existing great wheel may be repaired by tightening the rivet. This allows the wearer to keep authentic parts in their watch and will prevent the need for future replacement— as long as the new rivet is done correctly and tested.

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Before watchmaking school, I worked as a repair technician in a service center. As a brand service center, we did all the steps. Watchmaking school only reinforced the reasons why we went to such lengths to ensure the watch was working properly.

The culture shock when I see the bare minimum battery change that’s done in department stores, jewelers, and home workshops alike need some awareness. People will still try changing their own batteries— I hope this article will help you succeed.

Here are the basics for those in home workshops without all the equipment needed:

1. It’s a cell, not a battery. Batteries are made of several cells.

2. Do not touch the cell with your fingers. Oils from your hands will shorten the cell life.

3. Do not grab the cell with metallic tweezers, they will short the circuit and damage the cell before it’s even in the watch. Use plastic tweezers, available on Amazon.

4. Keep that piece of film you see under the cell, under the cell. It’s called an insulator— without it, the circuit will short, and the cell will last only a few weeks.

5. Do not write on the inside of the caseback with marker. The marker chemically breaks down with age and reacts with oils in the movement.

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The steps of a proper cell service with the correct equipment:

1. Clean the caseback before opening. Often they are dirty and you do not want debris entering the movement. Alcohol and a cotton cloth work well. There is special tooling for snap-on casebacks or screw-down casebacks.

2. Remove the existing cell. Check the code on the cell to see its age— this will be a clue about how the watch is working. If the cell is new, something else is wrong… unless the cell was defective from the start.

3. Test the existing cell: with dedicated equipment, assessing the voltage of the cell will tell you if the cell actually died. If it died, you’re on the right track. If the cell is still at full voltage, something else is to blame for the watch stopping.

4. Test the consumption of the movement: using special circuit equipment, such as the Witschi New Tech Handy II. This allows visibility into the actual function of the movement. There are technical limits designed by the manufacturer that the movement must fall within— if the movement is consuming more energy than expected, it indicates that the movement is in need of a service. A new cell will not correct this problem, and it’s best to inform the customer and perform the service then. If the cell was simply replaced, the customer would return shortly, escalated, because the problem was never fixed.

5. If the movement is good to go: test the new cell. Sometimes cells are dead right from the package, we have to ensure it’s new.

6. Install the new cell, with the insulator in place if applicable, using plastic tweezers, and verify the watch is ticking.

7. Lubricate and install a new caseback gasket.

8. Pressure test the watch in a dry tester like the Witschi Proofmaster. Replace additional gaskets if necessary, like the crystal gasket and case tube gaskets.

9. Set the time and date before returning to the customer.

Changing the cell in your watch when the watch has stopped is important. If a watch sits too long with a dead cell, it can eventually leak and destroy the movement. At the very least, it’s important to remove the old cell until there is a better time to have the movement overhauled by a certified watchmaker.

If you go to a third-party shop, do your research. As them how they change a cell and if they have a certified watchmaker doing the work.

Cell, or “battery” changes are one of the most frequented services by the public. Unfortunately, they are often the most neglected and misunderstood. Quartz watches are awesome— let’s keep them ticking for as long as possible.

My goal is to help educate my readers so that you are able to make confident decisions. I encourage everyone to try a cell change on a watch that is inexpensive and without sentimental value before you try it on something important to you— and of course, professional services are preferred. When possible, I recommend sending the watch back to its manufacturer as they have all the parts to properly fix the watch to avoid the variation of service quality at third parties.

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